Susan Alcorn's Backpacking Tales and Tips Newsletters for 2007

Contents:
1. Andrew Skurka's Accomplishments and Award
2. Important Camino de Santiago News
3. ALDHA Lists Triple Crowns for 2007
4. December Sky Guide
5. PCTA Facilitates PCT Trail Permits
8. 2008 Calendar Dates

#1 Andrew Skurka

Press release from www.andrewskurka.com  by GoLite. "On November 3, 2007, Andrew Skurka became the first person to complete the 6,875-mile Great Western Loop, an ambitious journey that links the American West's great long-distance hiking trails to traverse 12 National Parks and over 75 wilderness areas. Skurka, 26, completed his expedition by walking an average of 33 miles per day for 208 straight days, covering a distance equivalent to 262 marathons or twice the distance between Boston and San Francisco. In addition to experiencing many of the most pristine and beautiful landscapes in America, Skurka surveyed the toll that global warming is taking on them. Skurka's accomplishment is landmark in the sheer athleticism he displayed, the pinnacle outdoor experience he had, and in the sobering observations he made along the way."

There's a fine story about Skurka in this month's (December 2007/ January 2008) "National Geographic Adventure Magazine". They have named him "2007 Adventurer of the Year." One of comments that Skurka made in the Geographic article (by Daniel Dwane) made me laugh. Skurka was asked if he ever got lonely, and he replied that he didn't, there is no place where he feels more at home [than on the trail], "no woman, no town, nothing."

#2. Camino de Santiago News

Rosina Lia sent the following to the GoCamino forum on Nov. 29. Rosina has studied the Camino, walked many of its trails, visited Santiago numerous times. In other words, she's a font of knowledge about it.

"Probably the most troubling news that I learned about during my visit to Santiago last week concerns fake pilgrims and the problems that they represent, which are much, much worse than we could have imagined, and which explain some of the actions undertaken regarding pilgrims credentials, two seals per locality etc."

It turns out that there has been an alarming number of unscrupulous "travel agents" who have actually "sold" the Camino to bus tourists guaranteeing lodging at the albergues and even a Compostela. Some of them have even charged extra for the Botafumeiro 'show.'"

Many and repeated instances of bare-faced attempts to bribe hospitaleros in order to obtain beds for groups of more than ten people have been reported top the Xunta and to the Archdiocese, and dozens and dozens of "turigrinos" who paid extra for the Botafumeiro and didn't get to see it complained loudly and disorderly at the Cathedral itself."

Disagreeable and nerve-racking confrontations between hospitaleros and fake-pilgrims and their "leaders" have been alarming, and the array of fake "credentials" is mind-boggling."

Because of this, the powers-that-be (Xunta, Archdiocese and Xacobean activities' groups) have published a solicitation of offers from private organizations to manage the net of public albergues on the Camino. Those interested will have to submit a proposal detailing the precise activities intended to be put in place to: a) insure the pilgrim bona-fides of those seeking a place in the albergues; b) to provide assistance to pilgrims as needed; c) to take care of the cleaning and maintenance of the albergues, and, d) to safeguard and deposit the 3 Euros per night which, commencing on January 1, 2008, pilgrims will be required to contribute."

Somehow a yearly budget of 2.3 million Euros has been estimated for the purpose."

Other albergues will continue their own practices and charges. Roncesvalles, for instance, requires a contribution of 5 Euros per night, and the majority of albergues maintained by religious orders will continue their practice of making pilgrims' contributions entirely voluntary."

Also, pursuant to some of the suggestions made by pilgrims, several changes will take place beginning next year:

The informational pamphlet regarding activities and services available to pilgrims, presently available only in Spanish, will be translated into English, German, Italian Portuguese and French, and will be given to pilgrims as they receive the Compostela, or certificate, in accordance to their language," The current pamphlet informs about the Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays 9:00 p.m. Pilgrims reunion at the Cathedral; about the "Santiago Sepulcher in History" conferences; about the informal "dialogue" meetings with pilgrims and about the "Spirituality" meetings at the church of Saint Francis at 4:30 p.m."

While logistically it is not practical to call on the pilgrims separately at Mass according to their nationalities, they will be asked to stand, as a group, at the beginning of the Pilgrims Mass to be recognized and saluted."

From Susan: Rosina's letter provides some important background information for those planning a Camino walk. It appears that abuses of the refugio system continue to grow, refugios are becoming increasingly crowded, you should plan to get TWO stamps (cellos) each day for the last 100 km if you're going to use the refugios, and there will be 3-5 Euro fees charged to stay in the refugios.

#3 ALDHA Triple Crown Awards

The American Long Distance Association-West had a highly successful gathering near Lake Tahoe in late September. Their recent newsletter lists 22 recipients of the Triple Crown Award -- those who have completed the Appalachian, Pacific Crest, and Continental Divide Trails -- for 2007. Awards went to: Justin Lichter, Adam Pelletier, Kevin Hogan, Shinobu Price, Sanne Larsen Bagby, Chris Bagby, Shawn Forry, Richard Hitz, Godon R. Crawford, Jr., Lawton Grinter, Mike DiLorenzo, Paul Magnanti, Heather Anderson, Arlette Laan, Remy Levin, Bill " Berkeley Bill," Harold Herring, Alden Tondettar, Graham Black, Michael Vaz, Richard Efrid, John Drollette. Totally amazing!!!

#4 December Sky Guide

 December skies: December 14. Beginning of the Geminid meteor shower. Averages 60 per hour. It's bigger than the Perseid shower, but draws fewer enthusiasts--perhaps it's the temperature!

December 21 (22nd if you're east of the Rocky Mountains). Winter solstice. Start of winter in the Northern Hemisphere. The shortest day of the year.

December 23, 5:15 PST). Full moon. Also known as the "Baby Bean Moon" to the Osage. (above info thanks to Cal Academy of Science Member Publication, winter 2007.

#5 PCTA PCT Trail Permits

On February 1, 2008, the Pacific Crest Trail Association starts issuing permits for those planning to hike, or ride on horseback, etc., 500 or more continuous miles along the PCT. "Permits are required in all wilderness areas, National Parks, and other restricted areas along the PCT.

If you are embarking on a shorter trip, you can obtain a permit from the agency on which your PCT trip originates. For example, if you plan to travel from Echo Lake to Castle Crags State Park, you would need to contact the Eldorado National Forest since your trip would begin in that forest. They would issue a permit good for your entire trip."

If you plan on hiking or riding 500 or more continuous miles along the PCT, in a single trip, the PCTA can issue you a Thru-Permit. This single permit covers the entry (as a pedestrian or equestrian) and traversing of all local, state and national parks and forests along the PCT and is free to PCTA members. A $5 donation is suggested for permits issued to non-member." Lots more info at their website: www.pcta.org 

Regional: S. F. Bay Area

#8 2008 Calendar Dates

More Dates to Put on Your 2008 Calendar. American Pilgrims on the Camino gathering Friday, March 7 through Sunday, March 9, 2008 at the Old Mission Santa Barbara in Santa Barbara, California more info at www.americanpilgrims.com.

Meanwhile, you'll find details about the Pacific Crest Trail Fest on their website: www.pcta.org . I'm very excited about the panel on women, by women, that I'll be moderating. If you're planning on attending Trail Fest, send me the questions you'd like to have answered. That gathering will be March 28th - 30th in Sacramento, CA. www.pcta.org/events 

Happy trails,
Susan Alcorn

Dear Friends,
Fall is almost here; I love hiking in the S.F. Bay Area this time of year. At home the leaves on our Japanese maple have turned bright red, on the flowering plum a rich maroon, and the Ginkgo's fan-shaped leaves are now edged with yellow. The Ginkgo Biloba, once thought to be extinct, was re-discovered in China in the mid-1700s. It's one of the world's oldest trees, having lived on Earth for over 150 million years. (info Ohio State U. http://hcs.osu.edu/pocketgardener/source/description/gi_iloba.html   )

Contents:

1. Spanish Musical Interlude

2. Building a Home on the Camino: Dream or Nightmare?

3. Bear Tales

4. "Gifts from the Mountain"

5. The Knees Have It

6. Regional Activities: S.F. Bay Area

7. Susan Alcorn's Blog

#1 Spanish Musical Interlude

 For those who would like to get the feel of being in Spain, Ralph has posted a brief, but wonderful, video of the musicians we saw performing in the portico of the town hall across from the west-facing façade of the Santiago Cathedral. Ralph's blog address is www.timecheck00.blogspot.com The item is entitled "A Moment of Music - Night at the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela."

#2 Building a home on the Camino

 Rebekah Scott, who we were introduced to at the pilgrim gathering last spring in Williamsburg, Virginia, is a woman with a dream. It's a dream that she is putting into being —although at times it seems to be a nightmare. In June 2006, she and her husband Paddy, "pulled up stakes" in the U.S., and moved to a tiny village in Spain along the Camino de Santiago. They bought a farming compound in Moratino, which is on the meseta. Though the town itself is not particularly memorable, the bodegas that one sees when they approach the town are intriguing. If you've seen our Camino slideshow, you may remember the row of doorways cut into a hillside.

Recently, in her blog, Rebekah wrote about the site. "Dug [into the base of the hill] are 16 little doors, A path leads all around the base of the hill, and all along it are porches, entryways, lintels, and doors, each one numbered." She reminds us that the storage areas are used for not only storing wine, but also ham, sausage, cheese because of the bodegas' constant temperature.

Although some of the bodegas are no longer used and have fallen to ruin, some are in use. Modesto's place is decorated with am emblem of the trail — scallop shells. Celestine and Esteban have joined their two bodegas and have outfitted it with a fireplace, old farm equipment, and ancient barrels full of wine — perhaps past its prime. The finest one, however, says Rebekah, is one that has a woodstove, a TV with wide screen, tile floors, running water. It's quiet most of the time, but on occasion the owners and his friends decide to throw a tailgate party or bachelor party and they roast a whole lamb and drink to wee hours. Check our Rebecca's' new life on the ancient Camino: http://www.moratinoslife.blogspot.com Her photos of the bodegas accompany her July 31, 2007 entry. If you read Rebekah's account of their home-building project, you'll soon find (as Ralph put it) that Frances Mayes' project as described in "Under the Tuscan Sun," warrants only a 4 rating on the scale of difficulty; Rebekah's earns a 9.

#3 Bear Tales

Closer to home, a sad bear story. Amy Racina (author of "Angels in the Wilderness") writes, "Will people ever learn? After two weeks on the JMT, I had only seen two bears, and they were munching on berries and running away from me through the brush, as wild bears should do. As I was hiking back to my trailhead at Roads End in Kings Canyon National Park, I saw several signs warning that a bear had bitten a hiker at Mist Falls, just 5 miles from the trailhead. I made inquiries from a ranger when I got back, and he told me that the bear was a yearling (about 1 1/2 years old) and that people had been feeding him because they thought he was a lost cub. The bear had gotten aggressive, instead of learning to forage for himself. After much consideration, the park service had reluctantly decided that he would have to be put down. And all because people won't read the extensively posted bear-education information. The poor bear had to be shot because people thought it was cute to feed him."

#4 Gifts from the Mountain

 I've just read a wonderful new book, "Gifts from the Mountain." (I only wish I had written it myself.) It's a gem! Eileen McDargh has beautifully captured the essence of wilderness exploration with its numerous challenges and countless rewards. She's shown us lessons learned in the mountains that can enrich our "doing, being, living, and working" back home. Roderick MacIver's illustrations are the perfect complement to McDargh's writing: they show us many of the treasures to be found when we take the time to notice the quiet beauty around us.

This is a book that hikers and backpacker will enjoy AND it's perfect for giving to friends and family that don't quite understand why we do what we do! You can get it from her website http://www.eileenmcdargh.com/shop_books.html or if you are browsing our website, you can order directly through our site (from Amazon) on the women's adventure, pct or jmt page. www.backpack45.com

#5. Knees: How to Keep them Healthy

Ralph and I have often wondered about the lifetime of various joints. The question is whether knees and other joints have a certain number of movements possible and we are wearing out a scarce resource by hiking OR does using the joints increase their longevity. Ralph did a bit of research (more on his blog! www.timecheck00.blogspot.com) and discovered an article entitled "Ostearthritis and Exercise: Does increased Activity Wear Out joints" by Robert H. Sandmeier, MD. (The Permanente Journal, Fall 2000). The short answer to Sandmeier's question, "No. Exercise is one of the most effective way of improving and maintaining health." He goes on to describe why and how ostearthritis occurs and offers animal studies to support his position on the important questions. He continues, "Exercise (even strenuous…) on normal joints does not result in a substantially increased likelihood of arthritis."

So, take care of those joints by walking. And now that shorter days are upon us, it's an excellent time to work on ways to protect our valuable knee joints. I am NOT a medical doctor or physical therapist, please use your judgment before trying these on for size:

Key Points about Knees

1. In general women have more knee problems than men because of their lighter frame and because of their wider hips (which puts more pressure on the knee). According to the Mayo Clinic (Women's Health Source, Feb. 2006). "Women tend to have stronger muscles at the front of the tight (quads) compared with the back (hamstrings). This increases the risk of a tear of the anterior cruciate ligament (ACL).

2. Keep supporting muscles strong. The knee suffers if the surrounding tendons and muscles are too weak, or out of balance. Don't lock your knees when exercising. Ease into any new exercise programs gradually and avoid "weekend warrior" injuries.

3. Stretches (when warmed up!): HAMSTRING stretches:  Stand on one leg, bend the other knee and slowly pull the leg up behind you to touch your butt. Hold to count of 30 seconds. Repeat with the other.

Sit with both legs straight out, together. Do not lock knees. Bend slowly from the hips while reaching toward ankles. As flexibility increases, reach for feet. Push out through the heels, forcing toes to the sky.

QUAD stretch:

Sit on the floor with your knees bent and your feet under your butt, toes pointed to the back. Place hands about 12 inches behind hips. Lean back, feeling tension in top of thigh (quadriceps), not knees.

"Do NOT let the feet flare out to the side while doing this exercise. If you have any knee problems, be very careful about bending the knees under you. Do it slowly and under control. If there is any pain, discontinue the stretch (from Bob Anderson's excellent book, "Stretching").

4. Avoid deep knee squats (beyond 90 degrees).

5. Use kneepads, or foam cushion when working in the yard or on the floor.

6. Work on foot stability and balance by doing the following:

a) Standing barefoot, close your eyes and bend one knee to lift your foot off of the floor a few inches; keep regaining your balance as needed as you count to 30-60 seconds. Repeat with the other foot. You may only be able to maintain this position for a few seconds, but with continued practice, you'll be able to work up to 30 seconds or more. For safety's sake, be sure to practice this while standing next to a firm counter or piece of furniture.

b) Another exercise for balance. Wearing supportive shoes, stand on a flat surface on one foot and pretend that you are standing in the center of a clock. Jump to the other numbers on the clock and back to the center. Remember to regain your balance when needed. Repeat with the other foot.

7. Change out of hiking boots. We usually hike in trail runners, but there are places we make exceptions (on Mount Kilimanjaro, for example, or when snow camping). When you do wear hiking boots during the day, change to lighter footgear in the evening. It will let your feet relax and thereby reduce strain on your knees.

8. Yes, once again -- a plug for hiking poles! They're no longer a rarity in the U.S. and they definitely reduce the impact on your lower body. I haven't been asked, "where's the snow?" in almost a year now!

9. Lose weight. Losing one pound takes four pounds of pressure off your knees. (Patience White of the Arthritis Foundation)

10. Some OTC meds may help. Glucosamine — According the U.S. Wellness Letter, it can't hurt, and it might help. Ibuprofen — reduces pain and swelling. Capsaicin — a pain-reducing cream.

11. Warm up by starting your walk slowly, and then go into your normal pace.

12. Wear the proper footgear -- without proper foot support, knees and hips have to compensate. Shoes should have enough room to allow for swelling during exercise of hiking, but be snug enough to hold feet aligned comfortably. Consider inserts or orthotics if you have high arches or flat feet. Replace walking shoes every 300-500 miles.

13. Walk your own walk can also mean to keep your stride natural. Don't cause strain on your knees joints by trying to take huge steps up or downhill. When ascending or descending, shorten your stride and keep your knees aligned with your hips.

14. In addition — strengthening the glutes, and your core, by exercising will help stabilize your lower body. Choose your method: yoga, gym, tai chi, Pilates, free weights at home.... If knees are sore, you'll find that swimming is easy on the joints. Other methods widely recommended include elastic bands, acupuncture, and massage.

#7Susan Alcorn's Blog

I'm enjoying my new blog. It gives me an opportunity to write about a range of topics — the importance of happiness; travel; books I'm reading; backpacking and hiking safety, and so forth. Please visit me at www.backpack45.blogspot.com

Happy trails,
Susan Alcorn

"While it's true that one has to be careful and vigilant in the backcountry, it's also true that one has to look both ways before crossing Main Street during rush hour." (Matt Colon, Backpacking Light Magazine, Issue 6, pg. 14.)

Contents:
1. Camino de Santiago--the "Caminho Portuguese"
2. 2007 Camino Statistics
3. Peakbagging in a Wheelchair!
4. A Chilly Footcare Regimen
5. Heatrash and Blister Prevention
6. Gaiter Talk
7. GoLite Supports Program
8. Seasoned Hiker Celebrates on Half Dome
9. Fire at Kennedy Meadows, CA. (off Hwy. 108)
10. End of the Highest Outhouse!
11. Camino Presentation Next Tuesday!

#1 Caminho Portuguese

Ralph and I have just returned from our latest Camino walk -- this time on the Portuguese Camino (Caminho Portuguese). We started in the delightful city of Porto and followed the ancient trail through remote villages of northwestern Portugal and into the pilgrimage city of Santiago de Compostela, Spain. It's approximately 150 miles and takes about two weeks.

We actually started our trip in Lisbon. We went there on the recommendation of Helena, a young Portuguese woman who we met on the Spanish Camino (in Astorga) last year. She told us that we would feel right at home because it has many similarities to San Francisco: a setting near the sea, a beautiful suspension bridge, many hills, beautiful neighborhoods, and so forth. We were particularly enjoyed seeing a performance of the Fado (details follow) in a neighborhood restaurant.

After two nights in Lisbon (hardly enough!), we went by train to Porto and stayed there for two nights. Since the 18th century, its main product, Port wine, has been world famous. Port wine (also known as Vinho do Porto, Oporto, Porto, and often simply Port) is a sweet Portuguese fortified wine that comes upriver from Porto in the Douro Valley. Porto is a beautiful old sailing port, which was given 'World Heritage Site' status by UNESCO.

The grapes used for Port are grown and pressed upriver, stored in wine lodges in the city of Vila Nova de Gaia, which is just a short walk across the bridge from Porto. There you will find such well-known Port producing companies as Taylor, Croft, Calem, and Sanderman. For some of the tours of the lodges there is a small fee (the fee may be subtracted if you make a purchase). At Taylor, which we toured, there was no fee and we enjoyed a sampling to boot.

I had always thought it would be fun to help with a crushing of the grapes. I remember Lucy of "I Love Lucy" jumping into the barrel. The reality is that it is an extremely strenuous activity. The group climbs into a large wooden barrel of grapes, links arms, and starts marching in place for TWO hours! After that, they continue the process by joining in a party with singing and dancing -- while still stomping the grapes. Although some grapes for making Port are crushed mechanically, the highest priced varieties are still crushed in the traditional manner because it is still believed to be the best way to obtain the full flavor of the grapes. If we had had more time in the area, we would definitely have taken a boat ride up the river to see the vineyards and caves along the way, but we were anxious to begin our walk.

Following the advice of John Brierley, whose "A Pilgrim's Guide to the Camino Portugues: The Portuguese Way of St. James" we used extensively, we started our "hike" by taking a to the outskirts of Porto. Brierley had advised this because it would have been difficult to find the way out of town and there wasn't that much of interest.

During the trip I sent the following letter to a few people; I hope it provides some insight into the Portuguese route: "We are now in Ponte de Lima, Portugal and I think we are about one- third the distance. We are taking it easier than on some trips, but today turned out to be 14-miler. The weather today was just about perfect (70s) and there is an increasing amount of trail or off road walking. The first two days were pretty tiring because almost all of the miles were on the paved or cobblestoned side of the road -- and the roads are narrow with cars driven like they are all in the Le Mans. Houses and bathrooms are very well kept and clean -- lots of flowers you would recognize: roses, potato vines, dahlias, hydrangea, and because this is still primarily an agricultural area we see lots of corn and grapes (strange combination). We do, however, often go through small towns and it's pretty easy to find a place to stop for a snack during the day."

Litter is a BIG problem -- recycling seems to not have caught on very much (although there are bins in many places). The places we have stayed have varied tremendously in how fancy they are--the night before last night a very elegant old mansion, last night a hotel, but a rather stark, relatively modern, soulless hotel. In general, I would say that both food and accommodations are cheaper than at home -- surprising when you consider the Euro against the dollar at the moment. A definite bargain. It's also interesting how people dress. The men are usually much as back home. The women's clothing varies from the old style black clothing, to the middle-aged women dressing much as we do, and the teenagers wearing jeans like kids everywhere."

We are doing great -- even have learned about five words. A big accomplishment to learn to say "good day", "cerveza" (beer), and Cha (tea). We are staying an extra day here and will enjoy the contrast of the old Roman buildings, the medieval churches, and the modern and noisy carnival rides!"

Later observations: I got a kick out of the grape growing methods in Portugal and the region of Spain we just explored. A totally different setup. The vines are encouraged to grow high--on varying kinds of concrete or stone posts with wires strung between them. It creates wonderful arbors although it seems like it would be very tiring to have to reach up high and pick the grapes or to have to move a ladder along to reach them.

The question arises of how the Portuguese Camino compares to the French route--the St. James Way across Spain that we normally think of when we mention the Camino de Santiago In some ways they are similar, but in many ways it is a quite different experience. Similarities are that it is a traditional route steeped in history with many religious sites along the way. In addition, the people along the way were friendly and helpful. They were also quite tolerant of our inability to speak Portuguese. Many Portuguese spoke English, but certainly not all! The routines of the Pilgrim's day are much the same on each route--setting out for the day's walk, stopping at bars or restaurants to eat along the way, finding a refugio, albergues, or small hotel along the way. Note that Portugal has few hostels run by municipalities or religious organizations.

A major difference we felt, and most we talked to agreed, is that this route did not provide the same opportunity for introspection. That may be because it's a much shorter route, or that many fewer people are doing it so the sense of community is less--we think it's chiefly because there are so many distractions. Because so much of the time is spent being alert due to the high percentage of road walking, there's much less time for just being.

In fact, many people said that they could not in conscience recommend the first two days of the trail because of the dangerous walking conditions. Even after the initial days, there were several times that we had to cross heavily traveled highways on blind curves. Very scary!

For the most part, the trail was extremely well marked with the familiar yellow arrows. We know that only a few years ago these markings did not exist and we were very grateful to the crew that had placed them. It was interesting that much of the time that we were walking North following the yellow arrows, we were also seeing blue arrows pointing South, which direct travelers to the site of Fatima (and that's what most Portuguese think of when one asks about the Camino!).

Although the path was different, we are still very happy that we had the opportunity to do this walk and would recommend it. I was particularly thrilled to be again in Santiago de Compostela again and as luck would have it, the first person we saw when we reached the old, central part of the city, was a young Dutch woman who befriended us several days earlier at a pension in Portugal. A wonderful happenstance! And, contrary to our 2001 entrance to the city, this one was marked by beautiful blue and sunny skies. Everything was sparkling with the sunlight, tourists overflowed the outdoor tables of cafes, pilgrims -- happy to have completed their journey and reached the beautiful city of Santiago -- were everywhere in the narrow streets leading to the Pilgrim office or the Cathedral. There was such joy and happiness everywhere! We rushed to take some photos while the sun was shining because as you know Galicia is known for its rain. And wouldn't you know it, the next day it turned gray and rain -- the only rain we had during the entire trip! How lucky was that!

I could go on and on, but my creativity seems to be suffering from jetlag.

About the Fado (from the Portuguese site) "A shawl, a guitar, a voice and heartfelt emotion. These are the ingredients of Fado, the celebrated form of world music that captures what it is to be Portuguese."

Fado is the song that harnesses the Portuguese soul. Deep-seated feelings, disappointments in love, the sense of sadness and longing for someone who has gone away, everyday events, the ups and downs of life - inspiration for Fado can come from almost any source."

Nowadays, Fado is almost a symbol of Portugal, a celebrated form of world music that has retained its traditional qualities but moved with the times. Amália, the world-renowned singer who brought Fado to the great concert halls of Europe and the attention of international audiences, has found a worthy successor in Mariza, who continues to tour overseas, taking the Fado to an even wider audience."

The more popular forms of Fado are to be heard in the cities near the sea, such as Lisbon or Porto, but Coimbra has given the music its own unique feel, making it popular among students."

#2. 2007 Camino Statistics

via Rosina from the Pilgrims' Office in Santiago de Compostela: "By the end of August the Pilgrims' Office had granted 86,018 Compostelas to Santiago pilgrims who had met the qualifications therefor. Of this number 41,145 pilgrims came from 91 countries other than Spain. The largest number of foreign pilgrims, 9,574, came from Germany, followed by those from Italy, 8,141; from France, 4,852; from Portugal, 2,799; from the United States, 1,648 and from Holland, 1,242."'

Pilgrims came from all over the world, including Cuba, Israel, Jamaica, Vietnam, Iran, Algiers, Ethiopia and even Irak."

There has been an increase of 12.2% in the number of pilgrims compared to those of 2006. If the trend continues the total number of pilgrims for the year may exceed 113,000."

This surge has caused considerable problems, which are being discussed by the Confraternities with the view of having some possible solutions in place before the possible millions, which may converge on the Camino the next Holy Year, 2010, which will be the last Holy Year for eleven years. The Confraternity in Vienna drafted several suggestions, which were forwarded to the Archconfraternity for consideration. It appears that the same suggestions were being made by confraternities from Germany, Italy, and several other countries."

#3. Peakbagging in a wheelchair

Totally amazing accomplishment by Bay Area athlete, Bob Coomber, who submitted 14,246-foot White Mountain (CA) on August 24.. in his wheelchair. It was Coomber's fourth attempt--previously he had had to turn back because of altitude problems. This time he allowed himself time to acclimate--he spent five days at 8,500' Coomber, who is 52, had a support team to shuttle food and water. He spent three days on his successful attempt--including the final 1-3/4 miles, which took almost 11 hours. "Four Wheel Bob" is well known in the bay Area for his 20 years of hiking in on many of California's rugged trails. www. 4wheelbob.com/

#4. Chilly foot treatment

I had to laugh when my daughter-in-law gave me this hint about footcare recently. She works in the event planning/convention field and has to spend hours on her feet--often on concrete floors--and often in uncomfortable footwear. Her strategy for taking care of her feet is, when she gets back to her hotel room, to fill the toilet bowl with a bucket of ice and then plunge her feet in and leave them there as long as she can stand it. Flushing the toilet after the soak is the final, wonderful, treat (according to her)!

When we all went "Ew, gross!" she assured us that the toilet bowl was very clean because housekeeping cleans the bathroom twice a day! (Not sure where she stays, but the motels and hotels I usually choose don't quite meet those standards.)

Not too practical in the "field," or while backpacking, but whatever works...!

#5. Heatrash and blister prevention

Kathy Morey writes, "By the way, some ladies I've been hiking with have had very good luck preventing heat rash with cornstarch or cornstarch-based powder. All who have tried it praise it, even though they found it messy to use until they got used to putting it on. Maybe it would help you, too." [and cheaper than Blister Guard] She also suggests a method for keeping your water bottles cool on the trail, 'Almalee slips an old white sock over the water bottle; I've found this a good way to recycle old, white liner socks. If the sock is too long for the bottle, just fold the extra back down over the bottle for more insulation. Julie wraps her bottles in old newspaper while they're in her pack -- newspaper is a good insulator, and it's another way to recycle the Sunday funnies! [yes, but I wouldn't want the weight.]

Marcy writes, "I don't get blisters anymore, because I've discovered a tip from a runner...it's called TwoToms Blister Shield, Anti-Friction Skin Guard.... just sprinkle a dab (well, it says 1 tsp.) in each sock at the heel and I'm good to go all day. It's got wax in it! you can even put it in shoes if you're not wearing sox!"

#6. Gaiter Talk

#7. "GoLite was recently a sponsor for this event:

Youth Ambassadors from gang-ridden inner city Los Angeles trekked through Nepal and delivered more than $100,000 of much-needed medical supplies to rural health posts and people along the Annapurna Trail. Medicines Global www.medicinesglobal.com

#8. Seasoned hiker on Half Dome

#9. Highest outhouse is no more

Climbing Mt. Whitney is a wonderful adventure and a rite of passage to many. Unfortunately with tens of thousands wanting to do it annually, there is a tremendous amount of human waste left behind. Until recently that problem was dealt with at an open-air outhouse -- providing spectacular views from that throne atop the 14, 496' mountain.

Now the famous outhouse atop Whitney has been removed and the 19,000 or so hikers each year who get Forest Service permits to hike the Whitney Trail are receiving sanitation kits and instructions on how to use them.

"The highest outhouse in the continental United States is no more," reads the article in the New York Times. "High-altitude sanitation is too hazardous a business. Helicopters must make regular journeys up the steep-walled canyons in tricky winds while rangers in hazmat suits wait below to tie 250-pound bags or barrels of waste onto a long line dangling below the aircraft."

Hikers of Whitney will join those who climb Washington's Mt. Rainier, or who explore the backcountry of Utah's Zion National Park, or take a Grand Canyon river raft trip in being require to pack out their waste. The kits, commonly called the Wagbag, are actually two separate plastic bags. The inner one is a funnel-like bag with powder at the bottom. Water causes the powder to gel, encapsulating anything in the bag. After the climb, hikers can deposit the used bags at the Whitney Portal trailhead. After removal, the bags are designed to biodegrade in 6-9 months.

#10. Kennedy Meadows North burns

Yesterday, October 1, 2007, a fire destroyed the main lodge and several other buildings at Kennedy Meadows Resort near Sonora Pass in California. The cause of the fire is still under investigation.

The facility, built in 1917, included a rustic lodge, a set of cabins, laundry and shower rooms, and several storage buildings. The facility was used seasonally-- usually from early April to mid October -- and had been enjoyed by thousands of individuals, couples, and families over the decades.

When Pat and I went on our llama trip earlier this year, we accessed the trail into Emigrant Wilderness by walking through the aging resort, which looked like a wonderful place to bring spend some quality time.

Here's wishing you happy trails and healthy feet,
Susan Alcorn

In "Dark Star Safari," Paul Theroux writes about one of the local headman he meets named Chief George. During his conversation with Theroux, Chief George claimed that Samburo herdsmen could walk forty miles a day, and that women could walk faster and farther than men. He said, "'Women have a better rhythm. Men walk fast, then have to rest. Women don't rest.'"

Contents:

1. Section Hiking O, P, Q, R of the Pacific Crest Trail

2. Susan's request

3. Camino: American Pilgrims Regional gathering

4. Camino: American Pilgrims gathering

5. Construction crew on the Camino?

6. Quest Outfitters: silnylon supplier

7. Laundry: camper style

8. Dirty Girl Gaiters

9. Essential and Luxury Items for Hikers

10. Regional: Ticks

#1 Section Hiking OPQR

Ralph and I are celebrating having completed our longest section hike of the Pacific Crest Trail--300 miles from Burney Falls (near Lassen), California to Ashland, Oregon (Sections O, P, Q, R). Our total PCT miles are now 1,400 so we've hiked more than half of the distance from Mexico to Canada.

Many backpackers dread starting section "O." Some guidebooks refer to the horrible trail conditions. Apparently for years there were sections that were almost impassable. At this point, most of the trail is in good condition. There are still a places where you have to push through brush, but at least there are few deadfalls (fallen trees) or serious obstacles. We thought that Burney Falls was a good starting place--the terrain is pretty easy as PCT trails go.

Of course we did have a few challenges--dealing with temperatures in the triple digits--105 at 4:00 in the afternoon--takes some getting used to. Did I mention the humidity? We were warned about poison oak and although there were places where it was a nuisance (primarily near Castle Crags and Seiad Valley), I ended up buying and carrying an 8- oz. bottle of calamine lotion for no good reason.

Many people complain that they get really tired of looking at Mt. Shasta--after all hikers will be looking at it from every angle for 400-500 miles, but I never tire of seeing it. It was especially interesting when we had a cold rain while near Castle Crags (off Hwy. 5, north of Redding) and saw that Mt. Shasta had gained a new mantle of snow down to 9,000 feet. In July?

Our hike also took us through the Trinity Alps, Marble Mountains, and the Siskiyous. The JMT remains my favorite section of the PCT, but this area is a spectacular second. Every mile seemed to bring something new--a forest, a field of wildflowers, a boulder field, sparkling lakes, granite peaks.... Anyone looking for a wonderful place to get into the wilderness and avoid the crowds would enjoy this region.

As our trip progressed, we began to see more thru-hikers (they cover 25-30 miles days compared to our 12-15 ones) making their way north. I noticed that most were a lot less likely to stop and talk than when we see them hiking in Southern California. By the time they get this far north, they seem much more focused on putting in the miles--perhaps they sense the seasons are beginning to change and Canada is still a couple of months away. There were also several days in which we saw no one.

To avoid carrying food for 3 weeks, we mailed supplies ahead to Dunsmuir, Etna, and Seiad Valley. Each of these small towns had its own distinct personality, but Etna was the clear winner as far as hiker friendliness. No sooner had we been delivered to the post office by a trail angel than the locals started asking about our trip. One man offered us a place to stay, "I live by myself, but you're welcome to stay," he said. Another man offered to drive us back to the trailhead (15 miles) when we were ready. We could have stayed for a nominal amount in the local "Hiker Heaven," but elected to treat ourselves to two nights in a "Bed & Breakfast" instead.

As always, on this trip several "trail angels" helped us. We had a terrific sendoff--complete with gourmet meals to compensate for the days of freeze dried ahead--by our friends Sandy and Craig in Clio. Then was JoAnn and Emery Michaels, near Castle Crags, Jim Payne of Etna, Bill of Ashland all of whom drove us from trail to town. Our friend Jeannine Burk drove us from her place in Medford, Oregon to Burney Falls so that we only had to drive one car up north to start out. We would NEVER be able to do all of this on again, off again (section-hiking) without the generosity of the angels.

#2 Susan's Request

As you may know bookselling is a difficult business. So, I could use your help. My request: if you have enjoyed either/both "Camino Chronicle: Walking to Santiago" or "We're in the Mountains Not over the Hill: Tales and Tips from Seasoned Women Backpackers, please ask your local or county library to order it/them for their collection. I have found that librarians are very receptive to patron's requests. Please contact me if you need an information on how to do this. Thank you.

#3 American Pilgrims on the Camino is having a S.F. Bay Area get- together on Saturday, September 23.

Contact Lin Galea (who led an EXTRAORDINARY hike and ferry ride last year that took us from the San Francisco Ferry Building to Sausalito and back again. If you are interested in this year's event, contact Lin and she'll send you details as they develop. "Have folks contact me by email (lin at lingalea dot com) or phone (415-441-5951)".

4. American Pilgrims on the Camino (www.americanpilgrims.com) will hold the 11th Annual Gathering of Pilgrims on the West Coast in 2008

. Be sure to mark the dates on your calendar and check their website for registration forms and further information this fall. The Old Santa Barbara Mission, Santa Barbara, California March 7 - 9, 2008.

#5. Development Project on the Camino?

Helena Bernardo, formerly of Portugal, now residing in Canada, writes of a threat to the integrity of the Camino. A protest was held on July 29 to protest construction. "The Municipality of O Pino has projected an industrial site on the layout of the French Way between the nucleus of Cimadevila (Amenal) and the public square of Lavacolla. Work has already begun!!!" (ed.: for more information, if you can read Spanish, go to www.amigosdelcamino.com

#6. Laundry--traveler style.

 As you may know, Ralph and I try to travel light. Rare is the evening when we don't do a bit of laundry and hang it out to dry in our room. Refugios almost always have washtubs and places to hang wet clothes--small hotels often don't. If you are carrying hiking poles, you can use them as makeshift clothes drying lines--put one between two chairs, etc. Get creative, but don't let water drip on the floors.

#7. Quest Outfitters.

 If you are interested in making any of your own backpacking or hiking gear--such as sleeping bags, stuff sacks, etc. this is an excellent source of the fabrics. I've just ordered some sil- nylon (extremely lightweight) so that I can make stuff sacks that are lighter than anything on the market. www.questoutfitter.com