Susan Alcorn's Backpacking Tales and Tips Newsletters for 2007

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Susan Alcorn's Backpacking/Hiking Tales & Tips #96 Dec 15, 2007

Happy Holidays!
Contents:
1. Prevent Jet Lag
2. What Will Soon Be Only 54.8 Million Miles Away?
3. Gourmet Treats of Spain
4. Reindeer Games
5. Recommended books by Laws
6. A Beautiful Christmas Message
7. Update on Irene Cline
8. CPR shortcut?

#1. Prevent Jet Lag

Flying home from Spain on Iberia, I read the following in their in- flight magazine: walnuts can help prevent jet lag. I have no idea how to check this out, but we do know that walnuts are an excellent source of omega-3 essential fatty acids, so this hint is worth a try!

#2. What Will Soon Be Only 54.8 Million Miles Away?
On December 18, you might want to take a break from all of the holiday activities and look to the sky. Mars on that date will be making a special appearance and will appear brighter than any star. It won't appear as large again until 2016. Best views with the naked eye should be just after twilight in the eastern sky.
On December 23, according to Andrew Fraknoi, chairman of the astronomy program at Los Altos Hill, CA Foothill College, "the moon will be full and Mars will appear directly below it." "It will look like a red jewel." If you have an observatory nearby, check with them to see if they have viewing hours. In the S.F. Bay Area, there will be free viewings at Foothill College, Chabot Space and Science Center in Oakland, and Houge Park in San Jose).
#3. Gourmet Treats of Spain

At last year's American Pilgrims on the Camino gathering in Williamsburg, we were treated to a delicious tasting of Spanish delicacies courtesy of Don Harris and his company, La Tienda, which is located in Williamsburg, VA. Ralph and I also attended Don's lecture on Spanish food and learned about "Jamon Iberico" (Iberian/Spanish ham). La Tienda's website describes Jamon Iberico thusly:

"We at La Tienda have been on a quest for the finest of all hams, Jamón Iberico, since we started our business. Like the Beluga caviar or Kobe beef, "Jamón Iberico" is the ultimate of its kind. Until now it has been unavailable in the U.S. Finally two years ago the first producer in Spain, Embutidos y Jamones Fermin, was approved by the U.S. Government to export Iberico products to the U.S. In December of 2007, the first hams were released for sale in the United States."

The free-range, acorn fed hams are due to follow in July of 2008. Supply is extremely limited and we are flying over several shipments to cover demand this holiday season. We have a waiting list, though you must put up a deposit below to get on that list. Hams will be weighed to the ounce prior to shipment and your credit card will not be charged the final amount until the day it is shipped. All hams will be sent in a manner which will protect its quality: that may require 2- day air shipment, depending on the delivery area. You will be notified by email and telephone of the final amount prior to shipment."

According to Harris, a ham of this sort is set out on a counter in homes and restaurants and people cut off a bit at a time to use as desired. At $55 a pound, I probably won't be ordering one anytime soon, but there are dozens of other tasty products available at lower cost--gift boxes filled with tapas, sweets, cheeses--for example. They also offer paella kits, wine, and ceramics. www.LaTienda.com or 800-710-4304. If you mention promo code GC17 you can get 10% off your first order (according to an ad running in the S. F. Chronicle).

#4. Reindeer Games

It isn't too difficult to figure out how it is that reindeer (known as caribou in North America) came to be the animals used to pull Santa's sleigh. After all, they are well adapted to living in snowy regions. They have two layers of fur: the warm inner coat and another layer with hollow hairs. They have large hooves that allow them to stay on top of the snow as well as dig through it to get to the lichen growing underneath.

Reindeer are the only species of deer in which the females have antlers. And according to an urban legend (check Snopes.com ) all of Santa's reindeer must be females because the males generally lose their antlers in November or early December. Snopes continues, "we should have know that they were females because they are able to find their way."

#5. Recommended books by Laws

Grace Lohr sent a book recommendation that I am happy to relay to you:

"Last night at Audubon our speaker was John Muir Laws--a most interesting man who has written 'The Laws Field Guide to the Sierra Nevada.' You might want to mention it in your newsletter."

I did a bit of research and found that Laws is a research associate with the California Academy of Science. He's a naturalist, educator, and artist, with degrees in conservation and resource studies from the University of California, Berkeley; in wildlife biology from the University of Montana, Missoula; and in scientific illustration from the University of California, Santa Cruz.

"Laws Field Guide to the Sierra Nevada" was published this year by one of my favorite publishers, Heydey Books in Berkeley, CA, in conjunction with the Cal Academy of Science. Cover price $24.95, available on Amazon at $16.47. (368 pages, 2700 full-color illustration.) While at Amazon, I noticed that Laws also published "Sierra Birds: A Hikers Guide" in 2004. Both books have five-star ratings.

#6. Christmas Message

Sometimes just the right message is delivered. Yesterday our cat had to be put to sleep. Sadie was 18 years old and had a happy life, but now we notice an empty space. When I came to my computer late afternoon, there was a message from Dave Woods, a backpacker who we met on the PCT in Southern California three years ago. Go to this address and enjoy the beautiful "card" and Christmas carol that lightened my mood. Cut and paste the link below and follow the directions. http://ecard.ashland.edu/2004admission/index.html

#7. Update on Irene Cline

I've just received a holiday card from Irene Cline, who is one of the stars in my book, "We're in the Mountains Not over the Hill." (At the time that I interviewed Irene, she was the oldest woman on-record to have completed the Appalachian Trail). Irene is now well into her mid-eighties and wrote that she has now completed section hiking the 1,000-mile Ice Age Trail (a National Scenic Trail in Wisconsin). Irene is so inspiring!

#8. CPR

Although there have been a few articles published this year about an easier way to give CPR (doing only the compressions), the American Heart Association still recommends giving BOTH rescue breaths and chest compressions (30 chest presses at a rate of 100 per minute, followed by two breaths for adults) in most situations. (I am not a doctor; be sure to get instruction from appropriately trained personnel.) Since most of us aren't out backpacking right now, this might be a good time to sign up for a wilderness first aid class including instructions for giving CPR. In the meantime, there's an easy to understand demo called, "Learn CPR" at: http://depts.washington.edu/learncpr/quickcpr.html

Happy holidays,
Susan Alcorn
 

Susan Alcorn's Backpacking/Hiking Tales & Tips #95 Dec 1, 2007

Contents:
1. Andrew Skurka's Accomplishments and Award
2. Important Camino de Santiago News
3. ALDHA Lists Triple Crowns for 2007
4. December Sky Guide
5. PCTA Facilitates PCT Trail Permits
8. 2008 Calendar Dates

#1 Andrew Skurka

Press release from www.andrewskurka.com  by GoLite. "On November 3, 2007, Andrew Skurka became the first person to complete the 6,875-mile Great Western Loop, an ambitious journey that links the American West's great long-distance hiking trails to traverse 12 National Parks and over 75 wilderness areas. Skurka, 26, completed his expedition by walking an average of 33 miles per day for 208 straight days, covering a distance equivalent to 262 marathons or twice the distance between Boston and San Francisco. In addition to experiencing many of the most pristine and beautiful landscapes in America, Skurka surveyed the toll that global warming is taking on them. Skurka's accomplishment is landmark in the sheer athleticism he displayed, the pinnacle outdoor experience he had, and in the sobering observations he made along the way."

There's a fine story about Skurka in this month's (December 2007/ January 2008) "National Geographic Adventure Magazine". They have named him "2007 Adventurer of the Year." One of comments that Skurka made in the Geographic article (by Daniel Dwane) made me laugh. Skurka was asked if he ever got lonely, and he replied that he didn't, there is no place where he feels more at home [than on the trail], "no woman, no town, nothing."

#2. Camino de Santiago News

Rosina Lia sent the following to the GoCamino forum on Nov. 29. Rosina has studied the Camino, walked many of its trails, visited Santiago numerous times. In other words, she's a font of knowledge about it.

"Probably the most troubling news that I learned about during my visit to Santiago last week concerns fake pilgrims and the problems that they represent, which are much, much worse than we could have imagined, and which explain some of the actions undertaken regarding pilgrims credentials, two seals per locality etc."

It turns out that there has been an alarming number of unscrupulous "travel agents" who have actually "sold" the Camino to bus tourists guaranteeing lodging at the albergues and even a Compostela. Some of them have even charged extra for the Botafumeiro 'show.'"

Many and repeated instances of bare-faced attempts to bribe hospitaleros in order to obtain beds for groups of more than ten people have been reported top the Xunta and to the Archdiocese, and dozens and dozens of "turigrinos" who paid extra for the Botafumeiro and didn't get to see it complained loudly and disorderly at the Cathedral itself."

Disagreeable and nerve-racking confrontations between hospitaleros and fake-pilgrims and their "leaders" have been alarming, and the array of fake "credentials" is mind-boggling."

Because of this, the powers-that-be (Xunta, Archdiocese and Xacobean activities' groups) have published a solicitation of offers from private organizations to manage the net of public albergues on the Camino. Those interested will have to submit a proposal detailing the precise activities intended to be put in place to: a) insure the pilgrim bona-fides of those seeking a place in the albergues; b) to provide assistance to pilgrims as needed; c) to take care of the cleaning and maintenance of the albergues, and, d) to safeguard and deposit the 3 Euros per night which, commencing on January 1, 2008, pilgrims will be required to contribute."

Somehow a yearly budget of 2.3 million Euros has been estimated for the purpose."

Other albergues will continue their own practices and charges. Roncesvalles, for instance, requires a contribution of 5 Euros per night, and the majority of albergues maintained by religious orders will continue their practice of making pilgrims' contributions entirely voluntary."

Also, pursuant to some of the suggestions made by pilgrims, several changes will take place beginning next year:

The informational pamphlet regarding activities and services available to pilgrims, presently available only in Spanish, will be translated into English, German, Italian Portuguese and French, and will be given to pilgrims as they receive the Compostela, or certificate, in accordance to their language," The current pamphlet informs about the Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays 9:00 p.m. Pilgrims reunion at the Cathedral; about the "Santiago Sepulcher in History" conferences; about the informal "dialogue" meetings with pilgrims and about the "Spirituality" meetings at the church of Saint Francis at 4:30 p.m."

While logistically it is not practical to call on the pilgrims separately at Mass according to their nationalities, they will be asked to stand, as a group, at the beginning of the Pilgrims Mass to be recognized and saluted."

From Susan: Rosina's letter provides some important background information for those planning a Camino walk. It appears that abuses of the refugio system continue to grow, refugios are becoming increasingly crowded, you should plan to get TWO stamps (cellos) each day for the last 100 km if you're going to use the refugios, and there will be 3-5 Euro fees charged to stay in the refugios.

#3 ALDHA Triple Crown Awards

The American Long Distance Association-West had a highly successful gathering near Lake Tahoe in late September. Their recent newsletter lists 22 recipients of the Triple Crown Award -- those who have completed the Appalachian, Pacific Crest, and Continental Divide Trails -- for 2007. Awards went to: Justin Lichter, Adam Pelletier, Kevin Hogan, Shinobu Price, Sanne Larsen Bagby, Chris Bagby, Shawn Forry, Richard Hitz, Godon R. Crawford, Jr., Lawton Grinter, Mike DiLorenzo, Paul Magnanti, Heather Anderson, Arlette Laan, Remy Levin, Bill " Berkeley Bill," Harold Herring, Alden Tondettar, Graham Black, Michael Vaz, Richard Efrid, John Drollette. Totally amazing!!!

#4 December Sky Guide

 December skies: December 14. Beginning of the Geminid meteor shower. Averages 60 per hour. It's bigger than the Perseid shower, but draws fewer enthusiasts--perhaps it's the temperature!

December 21 (22nd if you're east of the Rocky Mountains). Winter solstice. Start of winter in the Northern Hemisphere. The shortest day of the year.

December 23, 5:15 PST). Full moon. Also known as the "Baby Bean Moon" to the Osage. (above info thanks to Cal Academy of Science Member Publication, winter 2007.

#5 PCTA PCT Trail Permits

On February 1, 2008, the Pacific Crest Trail Association starts issuing permits for those planning to hike, or ride on horseback, etc., 500 or more continuous miles along the PCT. "Permits are required in all wilderness areas, National Parks, and other restricted areas along the PCT.

If you are embarking on a shorter trip, you can obtain a permit from the agency on which your PCT trip originates. For example, if you plan to travel from Echo Lake to Castle Crags State Park, you would need to contact the Eldorado National Forest since your trip would begin in that forest. They would issue a permit good for your entire trip."

If you plan on hiking or riding 500 or more continuous miles along the PCT, in a single trip, the PCTA can issue you a Thru-Permit. This single permit covers the entry (as a pedestrian or equestrian) and traversing of all local, state and national parks and forests along the PCT and is free to PCTA members. A $5 donation is suggested for permits issued to non-member." Lots more info at their website: www.pcta.org 

Regional: S. F. Bay Area

#8 2008 Calendar Dates

More Dates to Put on Your 2008 Calendar. American Pilgrims on the Camino gathering Friday, March 7 through Sunday, March 9, 2008 at the Old Mission Santa Barbara in Santa Barbara, California more info at www.americanpilgrims.com.

Meanwhile, you'll find details about the Pacific Crest Trail Fest on their website: www.pcta.org . I'm very excited about the panel on women, by women, that I'll be moderating. If you're planning on attending Trail Fest, send me the questions you'd like to have answered. That gathering will be March 28th - 30th in Sacramento, CA. www.pcta.org/events 

Happy trails,
Susan Alcorn

 

Susan Alcorn's Backpacking/Hiking Tales & Tips #94 Nov 19, 2007

May the road rise to meet you.
May the wind be ever at your back
May the Good Lord keep you in the hollow of His hand.
May your heart be as warm as your hearthstone.
And when you come to die
may the wail of the poor
be the only sorrow
you'll leave behind.
May God bless you always.
-- anonymous, "An Irish Wish" (found in Ralph L. Woods A Third
Treasury of the Familiar (1970) p. 644)

Contents:
1. Laugh more, you'll live longer.
2. Great panel lineup for Pacific Crest Trail Association's "Trail
Fest"
3. Scrambler and Her Family's Adventures
4. How the PCT, AT, and CDT compare
5. ADZPCTKO
6. Of Camino Interest
7. Backpacker Nutrition and Health
8. Where in the World...?

#1 Laugh More

.A bit of humor: Go to this site and then scroll down to "Bear's [sic] in Salmon County."
Click. This is very important information for any PCT hiker to know.
http://www.nynjtc.org/trails/humor.html

#2. PCT Trailfest Panel

Friday, March 28 - Sunday, March 30, 2008. The Pacific Crest Trail Association's Trail Fest is an opportunity for members and non-members to learn more about the trail and how to get the most out of recreational and volunteer experiences on it. The keynote address by Arlene Blum will be given on Saturday night at the awards dinner. Blum is a chemist, mountaineer, and author. She led the first American and all-women's ascent of Annapurna (in the Himalayas). This promises to be a fantastic event! Location: Wildland Fire Training & Conference Center, 3237 Peacekeeper Way, McClellan, (Sacramento) CA 95652. (Also during the PCT Trail Fest) I am also thrilled to announce that I will be moderating a fantastic panel of backpackers in a forum entitled, "Women on the PCT" on Saturday (3/29). The all-star panel will include "Ladybug" (Denise Hill), "Gotta Walk" (Marcia Powers), Amy Racina (author of Angels in the Wilderness) and Sandy Mann." (We're still waiting on the schedule for time and location). (For more information about Trail Fest, including accommodations at Lions Gate, visit the PCTA's website: www.pcta.org)

#3 Scrambler Book Recommendation

A book recommendation: "Hello from a longtime list-lurker. Just wanted to bring your attention to Barbara Egbert's new book, "Zero Days: The Real-Life Adventure of Captain Bligh, Nellie Bly and 10-year- old Scrambler on the Pacific Crest Trail," published by Wilderness Press (288 pp., $15.95). This is a very readable account of Barbara's thru-hike with her husband and Scrambler, the youngest person to ever through-hike the PCT [all 2,650 miles of it!] at age 10. I think anyone who's ever had even incidental contact with Scrambler will attest to the fact that she's an extraordinary one-in-a-million kid." [ed.: I have met her and she's both a regular kid AND an extraordinary one.]
From the reviews, "'Zero Days' is a straightforward account full of outdoorsy details most relevant to those captivated by the idea of trekking the PCT, but there is a moral for the non-hiking masses: If you give your kids the opportunity to amaze you, generally they will."

#4. PCT, AT & CDT Comparison

Great website for comparing various long distance trails in the USA by Paul Magnanti. Paul just finished the Continental Divide trail and compares it to the AT and the PCT. Interested in trying the CDT -- you'll get a good overview and summary of all the information needed for planning a journey. www.pmags.com

#5. Annual PCT ZeroDay KickOff

The ADZ 10 (!) will be April 25-27 (Friday - Sunday), 2008. "The 10th Annual Day Zero Pacific Crest Trail Kick Off (ADZPCTKO) will be held on April 25th thru 27th [Description for the website www.http://pct77.org/adz/  ] "at Lake Morena County Park--just 20.1 miles by trail, about 7 miles by crow, from the U.S.-Mexico border. At the kickoff you'll encounter good people, great presentations, fair food, a few quality vendors, and several key non-profit organizations. Past thru-hikers, ancient thru-hikers, trail angels, and supporters gather to give those aspiring to thru-hike or take on a significant PCT section a bit of education, some great inspiration, and the butterfly- killing experiences of those who have gone before. Come join us in sending off another year's group and enjoy the fantastic camaraderie, energy, and passion that we, the trail community, all share."

#6 Of Camino Interest

Camino de Santiago news on Spiegel Online International. Charlotte writes, "Check out SPIEGEL ONLINE - November 2, 2007, 05:16 PM at the following website: http://www.spiegel.de/international/zeitgeist/0,1518,512057,00.html
There's an article, "BLISS, BLISTERS AND BEATIFICATION: Pilgrims Flock to the Way of St. James," by Matthias Schulz

"Spiritual seekers and power walkers from all over the world have rediscovered the Way of St. James, the old Christian pilgrimage route through Spain. Some travelers are looking for God, others for sex, while some are just trying to find themselves."
"A distraught young Italian man bursts into the pilgrim office of Roncesvalles, a small village perched among the verdant mountains of the Pyrenees, just as dawn is breaking. He's had to leave his companion behind on the trail and run for help. 'She's collapsed!' he yells, sweat dripping from his forehead. "You'll find her six kilometers from here." A member of the staff calls the Spanish fire and rescue service."
"This isn't the first time that pilgrims have run into trouble. Many tenderfoots are no match for even the first grueling stage from Saint- Jean-Pied-de-Port in France across the forested frontier mountains. Hikers climb the mountain on a mercilessly steep 26-kilometer gravel road to reach their destination. At times, low-hanging clouds reduce visibility to just a few meters...."

It's a lengthy article, but a very interesting perspective on today's Camino.

#7 Backpacker Nutrition

Www.thru-hiker.com  is a (commercial) website with many informative articles for backpackers. When you click on "articles" and scroll down you'll find nutritional recommendations for backpackers and other endurance exercise enthusiasts. "Pack Light, Eat Right," was written by Brenda L. Braaten, Ph.D., R.D.
Braaten covers such topics as: "How to Avoid Hitting the Wall," "How to Get Enough Protein," "Minimize Pack Weight," and "Edible Plants" in an easy to search frequently asked questions format. Well worth your time to read.

#8 Where in the World is Susan?

. This newsletter is a bit later than usual (I aim for the 1st and the 15th of the month) because Ralph and I have been traveling again. We weren't hiking; this time we were in the Caribbean on a Zydeco dance cruise. If you're looking for a great way to exercise when you aren't backpacking, consider dancing to Cajun or Zydeco's captivating music.
Last year Ralph put a short clip, with sound, on Www.youtube.com . You'll search under "Zydeco Cruise 2006" to get it. This year's is zydeco cruise 2007.

HAPPY THANKSGIVING!
Susan Alcorn
 

Susan Alcorn's Backpacking/Hiking Tales & Tips #93 Nov 1, 2007

Contents:
1. Webcam Delight
2. End of Stinky Clothes?
3. The Ruck
4. Ruby Johnson Jenkins Passes Away
5. Melissa West's Art
6. Spirit Eagle Offerings
7. Monsters in the Woods
8. Crime along the Camino
9. East Bay Ridge Trail Addition
10. Women on Common Ground

#1. Webcam  Delight

WOW! I recently found the most wonderful website for viewing the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. Several webcams are set up in and around the cathedral. Most wondrous thing - while I was viewing the live cameras - the bells chimed the hour! Unfortunately, I had no sooner found it than the cameras on the cathedral went down. But, there are still livecams in several other Spanish and French locales that might be of interest so it's still worth a visit. http://www.webcamgalore.com/EN/webcam/Spain/Santiago-de-Compostela/2816.html

#2. End of Stinky Clothes?

YOU KNOW how some clothing (usually things made of synthetic fibers) stinks after a short time? Backpacking expert Ken Powers sent the PCT-l forum his recommendation for long underwear, "I wear Patagonia silkweight polypro on all my hikes. One tip is to add extra soap and time when you launder them. I keep getting the comment "You look too clean to be a thru-hiker" and I don't notice that the shirts smell. I wore another synthetic fiber shirt on the AT that I couldn't stand the smell of. It smelled like motor oil even when it was clean. Ken and Marcia's website for tons of information on the CDT, PCT, AT, and American Discovery Trail. www.gottawalk.com 

#3. The Ruck

EVENT FOR anyone who loves hiking in the Rockies - or anywhere else for that matter - there's a gathering where you can reminisce about it. It's scheduled for Feb 29th (it's Leap Year) - Mar 2nd, 2008. This will be the fourth year for this event (typically they have about 20-25 people).
"The Ruck is a low key get together for those who enjoy the long trails. Doesn't matter if you're a thru-hiker, a section hiker, day hiker or a dreamer...you just need to love the outdoors and the long trails. More about the Ruck at: http://web.archive.org/web/20040111105214/friends.backcountry.net/ruck/  phone: (719) 486-9334
The Ruck will be at the Leadville Hostel in Leadville, Colorado. Go to their website (or call) for reservations. Mention that you are attending the Ruck. Cost is ~$60 for a bunk, shower, four meals (2 dinners, 2 dinners. Potluck lunch on Saturday. There are a limited number of private rooms, so if you prefer a room to a bunk, reserve early." Go to http://www.leadvillehostel.com .

#4. Ruby Johnson Jenkins
CO-AUTHOR of two guidebooks to Southern California, Ruby Johnson Jenkins, passed away last weekend. It was only after Ruby's son J. C. Jenkins died in a car accident that Ruby took up backpacking and writing the guides in order to keep J. C.'s books, "Exploring South Sierra East" and "Exploring South Sierra West" up-to-date.
Before J. C. wrote the books, he reportedly walked every inch of the trails using a measuring wheel. Ruby rewalked the trails to maintain the books' accuracy. (There are routes to travel by car, bicycle, and horse as well as on foot). (Mt. Jenkins in Section F is named after him.)
#5. Melissa West's Art

CAMINO ART: Melissa West has some great inkblock prints of the Camino de Santiago available. Melissa has a couple of upcoming shows. Camino art, "Paso a Paso: Prints from the Camino de Santiago," will be at Butch 'n' Nellie's Coffee Company 1820 I Street, Sacramento, CA. November 9 - December 7, 2007 Opening reception Saturday, November 10, 6 - 9pm Check out her website: http://www.mswest.com/artwork_camino.html 

#6. Spirit Eagle Offerings

I FOUND another informative website with info on U.S. trails that is worth checking out. Ginny and Jim Owen's www.spiriteaglehome.com  has journals of the following trails, plus lots of interesting reading about trail safety, how to pack, and so forth.
Great Divide Trail (Canada), 2007
ontinental Divide Trail, 2006
Alaska, 2004
Canadian Rockies, 2003
Absaroka-Beartooths, 2002
Pacific Crest Trail, 2000
Continental Divide Trail, 1999
Glacier National Park, 1998
Colorado 1997
John Muir Trail, 1990

#7. Monsters in the Woods

RECOMMENDED READING: I just finished reading Tim Hauserman's "Monsters in the Woods: Backpacking with Children" and highly recommend it. He writes whereof he speaks - he's taken his own children on many trips. Among the excellent pieces of advice: Let your kids bring a friend [there will be less complaining and more giggling!]. An excellent book to read to find out the ins and out of taking your kids into the wilderness. You can foster a love for the wilderness and help cure the nature deficit that so many children suffer from these days. (University of Nevada Press: 2007)

#8. Crime Along the Camino

THEFTS ON the Camino de Santiago: Recently reported were three robberies -- all at the refugio in Pamplona. "All three left their money and passports in either a locker or on their bed inside their backpack while they went to shower," according to the article as forwarded by Grant Spangler. "At least one person [had] asked their roommate who they trusted to watch their gear and that "roommate" turned out to be a thief. Their money was stolen and the roommate disappeared. Probably wasn't a pilgrim at all. But no way to know that." No one was injured. http://groups.msn.com/ElCaminoSantiago

These incidents remind us that it's important to keep your passport and moneybelt with you at all times. When Ralph and I took showers, we took turns so that we could watch each other's valuables. Alternately, take your items into the shower stall with you. As Grant reminds us, there are ATMs in all of the larger towns and cities, so you don't need to carry large sums of money.

Regional (S.F. Bay Area)

#9. San Francisco East Bay Trail Additions

BAY AREA RIDGE TRAIL: "7.5 Miles of New Ridge Trail Opening This Saturday" Bay Area Ridge Trail and East Bay Municipal Utility District (EBMUD) are announcing a new addition to the Ridge Trail. The trail offers a moderately challenging route through the beautiful Pinole Watershed with spectacular views of the East Bay hills and the Carquinez Strait. It's the longest section of trail they'll dedicate this year.
"The Pinole Watershed Ridge Trail is the culmination of years of dedicated effort by local planners, district staff, and trail advocates. Volunteers worked on National Trails Day this spring in a project sponsored by the Council, REI, and EBMUD to prepare the trail, plant trees, and install specially-designed cattle fences crafted on- site from local eucalyptus. The new trail connects to existing Ridge Trail in Sobrante Ridge Regional Preserve, creating a nearly 10-mile continuous stretch."
The Pinole Watershed Ridge Trail will be open to hikers and equestrians. Generally access to the watershed will require an EBMUD trail permit.
Directions: Parking is at the Bar X Corral, just west of the intersection of Alhambra Valley Road with Pereira and Bear Creek Roads, east of Pinole. From Highway 80, take Pinole Valley Road east about 5 miles (Pinole Valley Road becomes Alhambra Valley Road) and turn left at Bar X Corral. Download a map from our website. www.ridgetrail.org  Phone 415-561-2595 Fax 415-561-2599

#10. WOMEN ON COMMON GROUND

East Bay Regional Park District Naturalist Programs. For information: Sunol-Ohlone Regional Wilderness PO Box 82, Sunol, CA 94586 (925) 862-2601, svisit@ebparks.org For EBRPD info: www.ebparks.org  or (888) 327-2757
One of their upcoming hikes: - "Autumn Winds over Vasco, Sun, Nov. 18, 2007. 9:00AM - 2:00PM, Laughlin Ranch Staging Area, Brushy Peak, Livermore, CA.
"This dramatic, rock-studded landscape is rich in cultural history and is vital habitat for kit fox, fairy shrimp and other imperiled wildlife. Access to this very special place is available only via chartered shuttle on naturalist-led programs. Three relatively easy miles of hiking. We meet at Brushy Peak Regional Preserve. Disabled Accessible. Reg. Required: 1-888-EBPARKS (1-888-327-2757)."
Women on Common Ground is a series of naturalist-led programs for women who love to hike, camp, or otherwise play in the out-of-doors, but whose concern for personal safety keeps them from enjoying the wonders within their own parklands. Activities celebrate natural and cultural history and are designed to help women reclaim the joys of wild places by day and night. Wear sturdy shoes with textured soles for hiking on slippery slopes, dress in layers, wear sunscreen and a sun/rain hat and bring water and a trail snack to share. Parking fees may apply. We meet RAIN or SHINE, but will moderate our adventure to accommodate the weather. We encourage and can often help arrange carpools." +++

Happy trails,
Susan Alcorn

Susan Alcorn's Backpacking/Hiking Tales & Tips #92 Oct 15, 2007

Dear Friends,
Fall is almost here; I love hiking in the S.F. Bay Area this time of year. At home the leaves on our Japanese maple have turned bright red, on the flowering plum a rich maroon, and the Ginkgo's fan-shaped leaves are now edged with yellow. The Ginkgo Biloba, once thought to be extinct, was re-discovered in China in the mid-1700s. It's one of the world's oldest trees, having lived on Earth for over 150 million years. (info Ohio State U. http://hcs.osu.edu/pocketgardener/source/description/gi_iloba.html   )

Contents:

1. Spanish Musical Interlude

2. Building a Home on the Camino: Dream or Nightmare?

3. Bear Tales

4. "Gifts from the Mountain"

5. The Knees Have It

6. Regional Activities: S.F. Bay Area

7. Susan Alcorn's Blog

#1 Spanish Musical Interlude

 For those who would like to get the feel of being in Spain, Ralph has posted a brief, but wonderful, video of the musicians we saw performing in the portico of the town hall across from the west-facing façade of the Santiago Cathedral. Ralph's blog address is www.timecheck00.blogspot.com The item is entitled "A Moment of Music - Night at the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela."

#2 Building a home on the Camino

 Rebekah Scott, who we were introduced to at the pilgrim gathering last spring in Williamsburg, Virginia, is a woman with a dream. It's a dream that she is putting into being —although at times it seems to be a nightmare. In June 2006, she and her husband Paddy, "pulled up stakes" in the U.S., and moved to a tiny village in Spain along the Camino de Santiago. They bought a farming compound in Moratino, which is on the meseta. Though the town itself is not particularly memorable, the bodegas that one sees when they approach the town are intriguing. If you've seen our Camino slideshow, you may remember the row of doorways cut into a hillside.

Recently, in her blog, Rebekah wrote about the site. "Dug [into the base of the hill] are 16 little doors, A path leads all around the base of the hill, and all along it are porches, entryways, lintels, and doors, each one numbered." She reminds us that the storage areas are used for not only storing wine, but also ham, sausage, cheese because of the bodegas' constant temperature.

Although some of the bodegas are no longer used and have fallen to ruin, some are in use. Modesto's place is decorated with am emblem of the trail — scallop shells. Celestine and Esteban have joined their two bodegas and have outfitted it with a fireplace, old farm equipment, and ancient barrels full of wine — perhaps past its prime. The finest one, however, says Rebekah, is one that has a woodstove, a TV with wide screen, tile floors, running water. It's quiet most of the time, but on occasion the owners and his friends decide to throw a tailgate party or bachelor party and they roast a whole lamb and drink to wee hours. Check our Rebecca's' new life on the ancient Camino: http://www.moratinoslife.blogspot.com Her photos of the bodegas accompany her July 31, 2007 entry. If you read Rebekah's account of their home-building project, you'll soon find (as Ralph put it) that Frances Mayes' project as described in "Under the Tuscan Sun," warrants only a 4 rating on the scale of difficulty; Rebekah's earns a 9.

#3 Bear Tales

Closer to home, a sad bear story. Amy Racina (author of "Angels in the Wilderness") writes, "Will people ever learn? After two weeks on the JMT, I had only seen two bears, and they were munching on berries and running away from me through the brush, as wild bears should do. As I was hiking back to my trailhead at Roads End in Kings Canyon National Park, I saw several signs warning that a bear had bitten a hiker at Mist Falls, just 5 miles from the trailhead. I made inquiries from a ranger when I got back, and he told me that the bear was a yearling (about 1 1/2 years old) and that people had been feeding him because they thought he was a lost cub. The bear had gotten aggressive, instead of learning to forage for himself. After much consideration, the park service had reluctantly decided that he would have to be put down. And all because people won't read the extensively posted bear-education information. The poor bear had to be shot because people thought it was cute to feed him."

#4 Gifts from the Mountain

 I've just read a wonderful new book, "Gifts from the Mountain." (I only wish I had written it myself.) It's a gem! Eileen McDargh has beautifully captured the essence of wilderness exploration with its numerous challenges and countless rewards. She's shown us lessons learned in the mountains that can enrich our "doing, being, living, and working" back home. Roderick MacIver's illustrations are the perfect complement to McDargh's writing: they show us many of the treasures to be found when we take the time to notice the quiet beauty around us.

This is a book that hikers and backpacker will enjoy AND it's perfect for giving to friends and family that don't quite understand why we do what we do! You can get it from her website http://www.eileenmcdargh.com/shop_books.html or if you are browsing our website, you can order directly through our site (from Amazon) on the women's adventure, pct or jmt page. www.backpack45.com

#5. Knees: How to Keep them Healthy

Ralph and I have often wondered about the lifetime of various joints. The question is whether knees and other joints have a certain number of movements possible and we are wearing out a scarce resource by hiking OR does using the joints increase their longevity. Ralph did a bit of research (more on his blog! www.timecheck00.blogspot.com) and discovered an article entitled "Ostearthritis and Exercise: Does increased Activity Wear Out joints" by Robert H. Sandmeier, MD. (The Permanente Journal, Fall 2000). The short answer to Sandmeier's question, "No. Exercise is one of the most effective way of improving and maintaining health." He goes on to describe why and how ostearthritis occurs and offers animal studies to support his position on the important questions. He continues, "Exercise (even strenuous…) on normal joints does not result in a substantially increased likelihood of arthritis."

So, take care of those joints by walking. And now that shorter days are upon us, it's an excellent time to work on ways to protect our valuable knee joints. I am NOT a medical doctor or physical therapist, please use your judgment before trying these on for size:

Key Points about Knees

1. In general women have more knee problems than men because of their lighter frame and because of their wider hips (which puts more pressure on the knee). According to the Mayo Clinic (Women's Health Source, Feb. 2006). "Women tend to have stronger muscles at the front of the tight (quads) compared with the back (hamstrings). This increases the risk of a tear of the anterior cruciate ligament (ACL).

2. Keep supporting muscles strong. The knee suffers if the surrounding tendons and muscles are too weak, or out of balance. Don't lock your knees when exercising. Ease into any new exercise programs gradually and avoid "weekend warrior" injuries.

3. Stretches (when warmed up!): HAMSTRING stretches:  Stand on one leg, bend the other knee and slowly pull the leg up behind you to touch your butt. Hold to count of 30 seconds. Repeat with the other.

Sit with both legs straight out, together. Do not lock knees. Bend slowly from the hips while reaching toward ankles. As flexibility increases, reach for feet. Push out through the heels, forcing toes to the sky.

QUAD stretch:

Sit on the floor with your knees bent and your feet under your butt, toes pointed to the back. Place hands about 12 inches behind hips. Lean back, feeling tension in top of thigh (quadriceps), not knees.

"Do NOT let the feet flare out to the side while doing this exercise. If you have any knee problems, be very careful about bending the knees under you. Do it slowly and under control. If there is any pain, discontinue the stretch (from Bob Anderson's excellent book, "Stretching").

4. Avoid deep knee squats (beyond 90 degrees).

5. Use kneepads, or foam cushion when working in the yard or on the floor.

6. Work on foot stability and balance by doing the following:

a) Standing barefoot, close your eyes and bend one knee to lift your foot off of the floor a few inches; keep regaining your balance as needed as you count to 30-60 seconds. Repeat with the other foot. You may only be able to maintain this position for a few seconds, but with continued practice, you'll be able to work up to 30 seconds or more. For safety's sake, be sure to practice this while standing next to a firm counter or piece of furniture.

b) Another exercise for balance. Wearing supportive shoes, stand on a flat surface on one foot and pretend that you are standing in the center of a clock. Jump to the other numbers on the clock and back to the center. Remember to regain your balance when needed. Repeat with the other foot.

7. Change out of hiking boots. We usually hike in trail runners, but there are places we make exceptions (on Mount Kilimanjaro, for example, or when snow camping). When you do wear hiking boots during the day, change to lighter footgear in the evening. It will let your feet relax and thereby reduce strain on your knees.

8. Yes, once again -- a plug for hiking poles! They're no longer a rarity in the U.S. and they definitely reduce the impact on your lower body. I haven't been asked, "where's the snow?" in almost a year now!

9. Lose weight. Losing one pound takes four pounds of pressure off your knees. (Patience White of the Arthritis Foundation)

10. Some OTC meds may help. Glucosamine — According the U.S. Wellness Letter, it can't hurt, and it might help. Ibuprofen — reduces pain and swelling. Capsaicin — a pain-reducing cream.

11. Warm up by starting your walk slowly, and then go into your normal pace.

12. Wear the proper footgear -- without proper foot support, knees and hips have to compensate. Shoes should have enough room to allow for swelling during exercise of hiking, but be snug enough to hold feet aligned comfortably. Consider inserts or orthotics if you have high arches or flat feet. Replace walking shoes every 300-500 miles.

13. Walk your own walk can also mean to keep your stride natural. Don't cause strain on your knees joints by trying to take huge steps up or downhill. When ascending or descending, shorten your stride and keep your knees aligned with your hips.

14. In addition — strengthening the glutes, and your core, by exercising will help stabilize your lower body. Choose your method: yoga, gym, tai chi, Pilates, free weights at home.... If knees are sore, you'll find that swimming is easy on the joints. Other methods widely recommended include elastic bands, acupuncture, and massage.

#7Susan Alcorn's Blog

I'm enjoying my new blog. It gives me an opportunity to write about a range of topics — the importance of happiness; travel; books I'm reading; backpacking and hiking safety, and so forth. Please visit me at www.backpack45.blogspot.com

Happy trails,
Susan Alcorn

Susan Alcorn's Backpacking/Hiking Tales & Tips #91 Oct 2, 2007

"While it's true that one has to be careful and vigilant in the backcountry, it's also true that one has to look both ways before crossing Main Street during rush hour." (Matt Colon, Backpacking Light Magazine, Issue 6, pg. 14.)

Contents:
1. Camino de Santiago--the "Caminho Portuguese"
2. 2007 Camino Statistics
3. Peakbagging in a Wheelchair!
4. A Chilly Footcare Regimen
5. Heatrash and Blister Prevention
6. Gaiter Talk
7. GoLite Supports Program
8. Seasoned Hiker Celebrates on Half Dome
9. Fire at Kennedy Meadows, CA. (off Hwy. 108)
10. End of the Highest Outhouse!
11. Camino Presentation Next Tuesday!

#1 Caminho Portuguese

Ralph and I have just returned from our latest Camino walk -- this time on the Portuguese Camino (Caminho Portuguese). We started in the delightful city of Porto and followed the ancient trail through remote villages of northwestern Portugal and into the pilgrimage city of Santiago de Compostela, Spain. It's approximately 150 miles and takes about two weeks.

We actually started our trip in Lisbon. We went there on the recommendation of Helena, a young Portuguese woman who we met on the Spanish Camino (in Astorga) last year. She told us that we would feel right at home because it has many similarities to San Francisco: a setting near the sea, a beautiful suspension bridge, many hills, beautiful neighborhoods, and so forth. We were particularly enjoyed seeing a performance of the Fado (details follow) in a neighborhood restaurant.

After two nights in Lisbon (hardly enough!), we went by train to Porto and stayed there for two nights. Since the 18th century, its main product, Port wine, has been world famous. Port wine (also known as Vinho do Porto, Oporto, Porto, and often simply Port) is a sweet Portuguese fortified wine that comes upriver from Porto in the Douro Valley. Porto is a beautiful old sailing port, which was given 'World Heritage Site' status by UNESCO.

The grapes used for Port are grown and pressed upriver, stored in wine lodges in the city of Vila Nova de Gaia, which is just a short walk across the bridge from Porto. There you will find such well-known Port producing companies as Taylor, Croft, Calem, and Sanderman. For some of the tours of the lodges there is a small fee (the fee may be subtracted if you make a purchase). At Taylor, which we toured, there was no fee and we enjoyed a sampling to boot.

I had always thought it would be fun to help with a crushing of the grapes. I remember Lucy of "I Love Lucy" jumping into the barrel. The reality is that it is an extremely strenuous activity. The group climbs into a large wooden barrel of grapes, links arms, and starts marching in place for TWO hours! After that, they continue the process by joining in a party with singing and dancing -- while still stomping the grapes. Although some grapes for making Port are crushed mechanically, the highest priced varieties are still crushed in the traditional manner because it is still believed to be the best way to obtain the full flavor of the grapes. If we had had more time in the area, we would definitely have taken a boat ride up the river to see the vineyards and caves along the way, but we were anxious to begin our walk.

Following the advice of John Brierley, whose "A Pilgrim's Guide to the Camino Portugues: The Portuguese Way of St. James" we used extensively, we started our "hike" by taking a to the outskirts of Porto. Brierley had advised this because it would have been difficult to find the way out of town and there wasn't that much of interest.

During the trip I sent the following letter to a few people; I hope it provides some insight into the Portuguese route: "We are now in Ponte de Lima, Portugal and I think we are about one- third the distance. We are taking it easier than on some trips, but today turned out to be 14-miler. The weather today was just about perfect (70s) and there is an increasing amount of trail or off road walking. The first two days were pretty tiring because almost all of the miles were on the paved or cobblestoned side of the road -- and the roads are narrow with cars driven like they are all in the Le Mans. Houses and bathrooms are very well kept and clean -- lots of flowers you would recognize: roses, potato vines, dahlias, hydrangea, and because this is still primarily an agricultural area we see lots of corn and grapes (strange combination). We do, however, often go through small towns and it's pretty easy to find a place to stop for a snack during the day."

Litter is a BIG problem -- recycling seems to not have caught on very much (although there are bins in many places). The places we have stayed have varied tremendously in how fancy they are--the night before last night a very elegant old mansion, last night a hotel, but a rather stark, relatively modern, soulless hotel. In general, I would say that both food and accommodations are cheaper than at home -- surprising when you consider the Euro against the dollar at the moment. A definite bargain. It's also interesting how people dress. The men are usually much as back home. The women's clothing varies from the old style black clothing, to the middle-aged women dressing much as we do, and the teenagers wearing jeans like kids everywhere."

We are doing great -- even have learned about five words. A big accomplishment to learn to say "good day", "cerveza" (beer), and Cha (tea). We are staying an extra day here and will enjoy the contrast of the old Roman buildings, the medieval churches, and the modern and noisy carnival rides!"

Later observations: I got a kick out of the grape growing methods in Portugal and the region of Spain we just explored. A totally different setup. The vines are encouraged to grow high--on varying kinds of concrete or stone posts with wires strung between them. It creates wonderful arbors although it seems like it would be very tiring to have to reach up high and pick the grapes or to have to move a ladder along to reach them.

The question arises of how the Portuguese Camino compares to the French route--the St. James Way across Spain that we normally think of when we mention the Camino de Santiago In some ways they are similar, but in many ways it is a quite different experience. Similarities are that it is a traditional route steeped in history with many religious sites along the way. In addition, the people along the way were friendly and helpful. They were also quite tolerant of our inability to speak Portuguese. Many Portuguese spoke English, but certainly not all! The routines of the Pilgrim's day are much the same on each route--setting out for the day's walk, stopping at bars or restaurants to eat along the way, finding a refugio, albergues, or small hotel along the way. Note that Portugal has few hostels run by municipalities or religious organizations.

A major difference we felt, and most we talked to agreed, is that this route did not provide the same opportunity for introspection. That may be because it's a much shorter route, or that many fewer people are doing it so the sense of community is less--we think it's chiefly because there are so many distractions. Because so much of the time is spent being alert due to the high percentage of road walking, there's much less time for just being.

In fact, many people said that they could not in conscience recommend the first two days of the trail because of the dangerous walking conditions. Even after the initial days, there were several times that we had to cross heavily traveled highways on blind curves. Very scary!

For the most part, the trail was extremely well marked with the familiar yellow arrows. We know that only a few years ago these markings did not exist and we were very grateful to the crew that had placed them. It was interesting that much of the time that we were walking North following the yellow arrows, we were also seeing blue arrows pointing South, which direct travelers to the site of Fatima (and that's what most Portuguese think of when one asks about the Camino!).

Although the path was different, we are still very happy that we had the opportunity to do this walk and would recommend it. I was particularly thrilled to be again in Santiago de Compostela again and as luck would have it, the first person we saw when we reached the old, central part of the city, was a young Dutch woman who befriended us several days earlier at a pension in Portugal. A wonderful happenstance! And, contrary to our 2001 entrance to the city, this one was marked by beautiful blue and sunny skies. Everything was sparkling with the sunlight, tourists overflowed the outdoor tables of cafes, pilgrims -- happy to have completed their journey and reached the beautiful city of Santiago -- were everywhere in the narrow streets leading to the Pilgrim office or the Cathedral. There was such joy and happiness everywhere! We rushed to take some photos while the sun was shining because as you know Galicia is known for its rain. And wouldn't you know it, the next day it turned gray and rain -- the only rain we had during the entire trip! How lucky was that!

I could go on and on, but my creativity seems to be suffering from jetlag.

About the Fado (from the Portuguese site) "A shawl, a guitar, a voice and heartfelt emotion. These are the ingredients of Fado, the celebrated form of world music that captures what it is to be Portuguese."

Fado is the song that harnesses the Portuguese soul. Deep-seated feelings, disappointments in love, the sense of sadness and longing for someone who has gone away, everyday events, the ups and downs of life - inspiration for Fado can come from almost any source."

Nowadays, Fado is almost a symbol of Portugal, a celebrated form of world music that has retained its traditional qualities but moved with the times. Amália, the world-renowned singer who brought Fado to the great concert halls of Europe and the attention of international audiences, has found a worthy successor in Mariza, who continues to tour overseas, taking the Fado to an even wider audience."

The more popular forms of Fado are to be heard in the cities near the sea, such as Lisbon or Porto, but Coimbra has given the music its own unique feel, making it popular among students."

#2. 2007 Camino Statistics

via Rosina from the Pilgrims' Office in Santiago de Compostela: "By the end of August the Pilgrims' Office had granted 86,018 Compostelas to Santiago pilgrims who had met the qualifications therefor. Of this number 41,145 pilgrims came from 91 countries other than Spain. The largest number of foreign pilgrims, 9,574, came from Germany, followed by those from Italy, 8,141; from France, 4,852; from Portugal, 2,799; from the United States, 1,648 and from Holland, 1,242."'

Pilgrims came from all over the world, including Cuba, Israel, Jamaica, Vietnam, Iran, Algiers, Ethiopia and even Irak."

There has been an increase of 12.2% in the number of pilgrims compared to those of 2006. If the trend continues the total number of pilgrims for the year may exceed 113,000."

This surge has caused considerable problems, which are being discussed by the Confraternities with the view of having some possible solutions in place before the possible millions, which may converge on the Camino the next Holy Year, 2010, which will be the last Holy Year for eleven years. The Confraternity in Vienna drafted several suggestions, which were forwarded to the Archconfraternity for consideration. It appears that the same suggestions were being made by confraternities from Germany, Italy, and several other countries."

#3. Peakbagging in a wheelchair

Totally amazing accomplishment by Bay Area athlete, Bob Coomber, who submitted 14,246-foot White Mountain (CA) on August 24.. in his wheelchair. It was Coomber's fourth attempt--previously he had had to turn back because of altitude problems. This time he allowed himself time to acclimate--he spent five days at 8,500' Coomber, who is 52, had a support team to shuttle food and water. He spent three days on his successful attempt--including the final 1-3/4 miles, which took almost 11 hours. "Four Wheel Bob" is well known in the bay Area for his 20 years of hiking in on many of California's rugged trails. www. 4wheelbob.com/

#4. Chilly foot treatment

I had to laugh when my daughter-in-law gave me this hint about footcare recently. She works in the event planning/convention field and has to spend hours on her feet--often on concrete floors--and often in uncomfortable footwear. Her strategy for taking care of her feet is, when she gets back to her hotel room, to fill the toilet bowl with a bucket of ice and then plunge her feet in and leave them there as long as she can stand it. Flushing the toilet after the soak is the final, wonderful, treat (according to her)!

When we all went "Ew, gross!" she assured us that the toilet bowl was very clean because housekeeping cleans the bathroom twice a day! (Not sure where she stays, but the motels and hotels I usually choose don't quite meet those standards.)

Not too practical in the "field," or while backpacking, but whatever works...!

#5. Heatrash and blister prevention

Kathy Morey writes, "By the way, some ladies I've been hiking with have had very good luck preventing heat rash with cornstarch or cornstarch-based powder. All who have tried it praise it, even though they found it messy to use until they got used to putting it on. Maybe it would help you, too." [and cheaper than Blister Guard] She also suggests a method for keeping your water bottles cool on the trail, 'Almalee slips an old white sock over the water bottle; I've found this a good way to recycle old, white liner socks. If the sock is too long for the bottle, just fold the extra back down over the bottle for more insulation. Julie wraps her bottles in old newspaper while they're in her pack -- newspaper is a good insulator, and it's another way to recycle the Sunday funnies! [yes, but I wouldn't want the weight.]

Marcy writes, "I don't get blisters anymore, because I've discovered a tip from a runner...it's called TwoToms Blister Shield, Anti-Friction Skin Guard.... just sprinkle a dab (well, it says 1 tsp.) in each sock at the heel and I'm good to go all day. It's got wax in it! you can even put it in shoes if you're not wearing sox!"

#6. Gaiter Talk

Glen Van Peski of Gossamer Gear comments that "the Injinji toe socks [which I recommended in my last issue] are also available in Coolmax, not just wool. Also, you might try the lightweight gaiters from Simblissity. I have not tried the Dirty Girls variety, but I love the fit and weight of the Simplissity ones, and the fact that they fit without an under-cord to break."

#7. "GoLite was recently a sponsor for this event:

Youth Ambassadors from gang-ridden inner city Los Angeles trekked through Nepal and delivered more than $100,000 of much-needed medical supplies to rural health posts and people along the Annapurna Trail. Medicines Global www.medicinesglobal.com

#8. Seasoned hiker on Half Dome

Jane writes about still another seasoned adventurer,
" Just got an e-mail from a friend who did [Yosemite's] Half Dome with three other gals in their mid-sixties. They were celebrating up on top when who comes on up but an eighty-year old woman with her two sons, celebrating her birthday!!!" Wonderful!!"

"My husband and I hiked for three weeks in the French Pyrenees in June and it was fantastic. Gorgeous views, waterfalls, streams full of water, flowers, cows and sheep. And GREEN!!! Not at all dry this year. Didn't meet Americans. The language is a barrier for some, I think.

I've never hiked in Portugal but have been by car all over the country. Areas north of Porto, along the coast and in the Celtic areas are wonderful. Along with the famous Fado music the Celtic music is wonderful."

#9. Highest outhouse is no more

Climbing Mt. Whitney is a wonderful adventure and a rite of passage to many. Unfortunately with tens of thousands wanting to do it annually, there is a tremendous amount of human waste left behind. Until recently that problem was dealt with at an open-air outhouse -- providing spectacular views from that throne atop the 14, 496' mountain.

Now the famous outhouse atop Whitney has been removed and the 19,000 or so hikers each year who get Forest Service permits to hike the Whitney Trail are receiving sanitation kits and instructions on how to use them.

"The highest outhouse in the continental United States is no more," reads the article in the New York Times. "High-altitude sanitation is too hazardous a business. Helicopters must make regular journeys up the steep-walled canyons in tricky winds while rangers in hazmat suits wait below to tie 250-pound bags or barrels of waste onto a long line dangling below the aircraft."

Hikers of Whitney will join those who climb Washington's Mt. Rainier, or who explore the backcountry of Utah's Zion National Park, or take a Grand Canyon river raft trip in being require to pack out their waste. The kits, commonly called the Wagbag, are actually two separate plastic bags. The inner one is a funnel-like bag with powder at the bottom. Water causes the powder to gel, encapsulating anything in the bag. After the climb, hikers can deposit the used bags at the Whitney Portal trailhead. After removal, the bags are designed to biodegrade in 6-9 months.

#10. Kennedy Meadows North burns

Yesterday, October 1, 2007, a fire destroyed the main lodge and several other buildings at Kennedy Meadows Resort near Sonora Pass in California. The cause of the fire is still under investigation.

The facility, built in 1917, included a rustic lodge, a set of cabins, laundry and shower rooms, and several storage buildings. The facility was used seasonally-- usually from early April to mid October -- and had been enjoyed by thousands of individuals, couples, and families over the decades.

When Pat and I went on our llama trip earlier this year, we accessed the trail into Emigrant Wilderness by walking through the aging resort, which looked like a wonderful place to bring spend some quality time.

Here's wishing you happy trails and healthy feet,
Susan Alcorn

 

Susan Alcorn's Backpacking/Hiking Tales & Tips #90A Correction & addition

1. Correction on 2008 Trailfest

#1. In my latest newsletter (#90, Sep. 1, 2007), I gave incorrect information regarding the 2008 Pacific Crest Trail "Trailfest." It will NOT be in Seattle; it will be in Sacramento, California. In the next issue of this newsletter, I'll give the exact dates and additional information. In the meantime, you can check www.pcta.org

Details from the PCTA office:
"We are holding Trail Fest 2008 at the US Forest Service Wild Fire Conference Center in Sacramento, California. We will be putting it up on our web site today or tomorrow."

2. AND a great Hulda  Crooks story!

#2. Peter Gotla sent the following story of his unusual High Sierra encounter with the famous Hulda Crooks.

"In August 1986 I was attempting a one-day hike from Whitney Portal to Mount Whitney and back. In mid-morning, around 12,000ft, I came across a very large and unlikely-looking group of hikers sprawled on, and around the trail. Curious, I started asking questions and learned that this was Hulda Crooks and friends, and that Hulda, at age 90, was making her 23rd ascent of Mount Whitney since her 65th birthday. "

But what an entourage she had with her! She was accompanied by her Congressman (really!), [ed.: Jerry Lewis (R-Redlands] her minister, a reporter from her home-town newspaper, some other local notables, and a bunch of kids from her church, who seemed to be doing most of the heavy lifting. There was also a Hollywood movie crew, filming the historic ascent with a lot of sophisticated (and in those days, I'm sure, heavy) equipment. And there's more - the crew was union, and their contract called for them to get three catered meals a day when on location. At the time I was there they were being served lunch in the shade of a sturdy canopy, seated at a portable table. I remember cold cuts, guacomole, bread and fresh fruit and veggies, provided by the catering crew who were also part of the hiking group. The complete ascent/descent was planned to take three or four days."

Despite the crowd, I was able to chat with Hulda. She was friendly, cheerful and encouraging, but looked a little tired. Spurred on by the encounter ("I can do anything some little 90 year old lady can do") I made my first successful ascent of Mount Whitney (after two previous failures). I learned subsequently that she didn't make the top that year and then returned in 1987 for her 23rd, and final summit." [ed.: My thanks to Peter G. for sending this great story!]

Susan Alcorn's Backpacking/Hiking Tales & Tips #90, September 1, 2007

1. Pacific Crest Trail in Northern California

2. Hulda Crooks: Amazing Outdoorswoman

3. My new blog: www.backpack45.blogspot.com

4. Camino news / a French trail

5. Food Storage in the Sierra

6. A Little Friendly Competition

7. Jim Batdorff's success story

8. Paul McHugh Chooses a New Fork

9. Carole Latimer's Move

10. "It's all good!"

11. Rebuilding Alcatraz Islands Gardens

#1 Pacific Crest Trail in Northern California

When I wrote last issue about the friendliness of trail town Etna near the northern California PCT, I didn't mean to suggest that the other places we stopped were not friendly or interesting. Although Dunsmuir (near Castle Crags) has suffered economically for many years and has lost its laundromat and a B & B that welcomed backpackers, there are some positive things happening and plenty of enthusiasm for re-building a vibrant community. I was particularly happy to see the growing number of new art studios, shops, and restaurants along the river.

Seiad Valley, our final stop along the way, was also interesting in its own way. Because of its location - on the Klamath River - there are several trailer parks nearby. We spent the evening listening to the locals' stories about their gold prospecting efforts in the river.

We also enjoyed eating at the famous Seiad Valley Cafe. In spring 2003, the Travel Channel chose the cafe as the third best location in the world to "pig out." They were referring, of course, to the cafe's great "pancake challenge" which tempts hungry thru-hikers to finish a mammoth stack of pancakes in one sitting. Few have succeeded. The Seiad Valley Cafe appeared on the Travel Channel's "Gross Outs: The World's Best Places to Pig Out" program. Although Ralph and I weren't tempted by the challenge to eat five plate-sized pancakes (containing five pounds of pancake flour!), we did chow down on delicious hamburgers and club sandwiches.

We slept in a trailer park in an area designated for hikers. The foot- high picket fence surrounding the straw covered plot was "to keep the dogs from licking your face while you sleep." The manager had also considerately provided a small fridge, table and chairs, TV, desk and lamp.

#2. Hulda Crooks

An amazing outdoorswoman. "Fondly known as 'Grandma Whitney' among fellow climbers, she made a total of 23 successful attempts at climbing Mount Whitney. She made her first climb at age 66 (in 1962). She climbed it for the last time in 1987, at age 91, making her the oldest woman ever to climb Mount Whitney (14,496').

At the age of 91, she also successfully climbed the 12,388-foot Mount Fuji -- Japan's highest peak. In 1991, a peak south of Mount Whitney was named Crooks Peak in her honor and a park in Loma Linda was named for her (She had become vegetarian at age 19. She lived to the age of 101. (info from Loma Linda University News, 12/3/97)

#3 My new blog:

 www.backpack45.blogspot.com and I would enjoy your comments.

#4Camino News - a French trail

Reader David Keener has news and a great suggestion for a hike in France.

"I am a senior. I just returned from hiking the Camino Frances (Leon to Santiago segment), and wish to return next April and begin far inside France." "Also, an easy hike that would be enjoyable... In the late 1600s a canal was built from the Beziers, on the Mediterranean to somewhere on the Atlantic. It was used to transport goods for only a short time. The portion that remains is called the Canal du Midi. It is beautiful, bordered with enormous plant trees, and passes through some of the best wine country in southern France. There is good infrastructure. Someone should organize a group hiking tour for seniors along this spectacular path! "

#5. Food Storage in the Sierra:

 There's a new Sierra Nevada Wilderness Food Storage Map available on line at www.SierraWildBear.gov . (visitors can also obtain a paper copy of the map at visitor centers that rent bear canisters). The site also provides current information on which bear resistant food canisters are approved in National Parks and National Forests in the Sierra Nevada. The new map should make it easier for backpackers to figure out where canisters are required and where storage lockers are located.

#6 Friendly Competition.

My sister-in-law, Joyce B., has a good idea for those of us who need a little push to get in our 10,000 steps a day, "With our pedometers Brian & I find that a little friendly competition can be a helpful inspiration."

#7. Another success story:

 Jim Batdorff, of Coos Bay, Oregon [where I was born!] recently wrote to the Pacific Crest Trail forum:

 "Just to let you know that after 26 years I completed the PCT this month. I started in 1981, doing a piece of the trail in Oregon with a friend and my two sons. I never had in mind that year, of doing anymore hiking, but as I continued in subsequent years of 'section hiking', I got 'hooked' on the trail. My goal became to section hike 100 miles a year."
"During those 26 years I hiked with over 50 different people, and in some years hiked with as many as 8 people at one time. This month (August 23) I completed the entire trail, hiking the JMT/PCT section from Bishop Pass Jct. north to Duck Lake Jct.; and then Red's Meadow north to Tuolumne Meadows, the later with my two sons who are now in their late 30's. What a joy that was. I want to thank many of you who gave me information and support on the list, and many who gave me support 'on the trail'; and some PCT coordinators who >are no longer with us. Now at the age of 65, and having hiked 126 miles in the last two weeks (9 hiking days) in the high Sierra's, I feel great about what I physically have accomplished, and about the future. "

#8. Paul McHugh

Good news/bad news. Paul McHugh who's been an outdoors writer for the [S.F.] Chronicle for 22 years has just written his farewell column to his readers. He mentions that the Chronicle is "slimming down," but focuses more on the exciting challenges that he's faced over the years in order to bring his readers stories: whitewater rafting in Alaska, kayaking along the N. California coast, and skin-diving in Hawaii. He has some tips for preserving the outdoors, "A reed or a twig on its own is an awfully frail thing. But once bound into bundles, they grow stout and secure." "Join a like-minded affinity group." (S.F. Chron. D 11, Aug. 30, 2007.) We will miss his frequent columns, but as Paul takes a different trail, we can follow him on further adventures at: www.paulmchugh.net .

#9. Carole Latimer

Another big move is in store for Carole Latimer, the founder of Berkeley-based Call of the Wild. Coincidentally Paul McHugh (above) wrote recently about Carole, "I've got my cabin up at Echo Summit. I plan on undertaking a ton of backpacking, just on my own," she says. "It's been years since I could [go backpacking on her own], and I'm really looking forward to it." Call of the Wild (510) 849-9292 or (888) 378-1978 (outside California); or www.callwild.com .

I've never met Carole, but have long admired her for being a pioneer in the field of women-only adventure travel. As her website states, "it's the world's longest-running adventure travel company for women." Carole was my very first paying customer for "We're in the Mountains, Not Over the Hill", back on April 11, 2003. We wish her well!

#10. Its all Good

In the last issue of this newsletter, I asked volunteers to approach their libraries with the request that they add "Camino Chronicle" or "We're in the Mountains, Not over the Hill" to their collections. Several of you responded. The big promoter award, however, must go to Linda B. of Brentwood, CA, who is a friend from high school days. Linda has launched a letter writing campaign to friends across the country. Thanks to all who helped out! I love it!

#11 Alcatraz Islands Gardens

I found an interesting project taking place in San Francisco Bay: "Rebuilding Alcatraz Islands Gardens www.parksconservancy.org . S F. West 415-561-3013; S.F. East 415- 282-6840. ." Wednesdays and Fridays 8:30 AM - 12:30 PM. Volunteers needed (adults). "The extraordinary gardens once created by military and federal prison staff and inmates on San Francisco's Alcatraz Island are being reclaimed as a joint project by The Garden Conservancy, the Golden Gate National Parks Conservancy, and the National Parks Service. In continuous existence for over 150 years, these gardens reflect a rich history of horticulture and gardening ideas spanning many different eras, including floriferous Victorian cottage gardens, terraced cutting beds, and environmentally sensitive attempts at erosion control. Since 2003, garden volunteer crews have been working each week to re-establish the historic gardens. Activities will include clearing invasive weeds and brush and salvaging remnants plants. Through the project, volunteers will be introduced to the stories of the gardens and have the opportunity to visit some areas not accessible to the public. As an added bonus, garden volunteers arrive on Alcatraz before other visitors, so you can experience the island during the most tranquil time of day. Registration Required. This is not a drop-in program. An application is required, as well as a commitment to volunteering on a weekly or bi- weekly basis for 2-3 months." Contact Information: (415) 561-3062 or cashford@gardenconservancy.org .

Buen Camino,
Susan Alcorn
 

Susan Alcorn's Backpacking/Hiking Tales & Tips #89 August 15, 2007

In "Dark Star Safari," Paul Theroux writes about one of the local headman he meets named Chief George. During his conversation with Theroux, Chief George claimed that Samburo herdsmen could walk forty miles a day, and that women could walk faster and farther than men. He said, "'Women have a better rhythm. Men walk fast, then have to rest. Women don't rest.'"

Contents:

1. Section Hiking O, P, Q, R of the Pacific Crest Trail

2. Susan's request

3. Camino: American Pilgrims Regional gathering

4. Camino: American Pilgrims gathering

5. Construction crew on the Camino?

6. Quest Outfitters: silnylon supplier

7. Laundry: camper style

8. Dirty Girl Gaiters

9. Essential and Luxury Items for Hikers

10. Regional: Ticks

#1 Section Hiking OPQR
Ralph and I are celebrating having completed our longest section hike of the Pacific Crest Trail--300 miles from Burney Falls (near Lassen), California to Ashland, Oregon (Sections O, P, Q, R). Our total PCT miles are now 1,400 so we've hiked more than half of the distance from Mexico to Canada.

Many backpackers dread starting section "O." Some guidebooks refer to the horrible trail conditions. Apparently for years there were sections that were almost impassable. At this point, most of the trail is in good condition. There are still a places where you have to push through brush, but at least there are few deadfalls (fallen trees) or serious obstacles. We thought that Burney Falls was a good starting place--the terrain is pretty easy as PCT trails go.

Of course we did have a few challenges--dealing with temperatures in the triple digits--105 at 4:00 in the afternoon--takes some getting used to. Did I mention the humidity? We were warned about poison oak and although there were places where it was a nuisance (primarily near Castle Crags and Seiad Valley), I ended up buying and carrying an 8- oz. bottle of calamine lotion for no good reason.

Many people complain that they get really tired of looking at Mt. Shasta--after all hikers will be looking at it from every angle for 400-500 miles, but I never tire of seeing it. It was especially interesting when we had a cold rain while near Castle Crags (off Hwy. 5, north of Redding) and saw that Mt. Shasta had gained a new mantle of snow down to 9,000 feet. In July?

Our hike also took us through the Trinity Alps, Marble Mountains, and the Siskiyous. The JMT remains my favorite section of the PCT, but this area is a spectacular second. Every mile seemed to bring something new--a forest, a field of wildflowers, a boulder field, sparkling lakes, granite peaks.... Anyone looking for a wonderful place to get into the wilderness and avoid the crowds would enjoy this region.

As our trip progressed, we began to see more thru-hikers (they cover 25-30 miles days compared to our 12-15 ones) making their way north. I noticed that most were a lot less likely to stop and talk than when we see them hiking in Southern California. By the time they get this far north, they seem much more focused on putting in the miles--perhaps they sense the seasons are beginning to change and Canada is still a couple of months away. There were also several days in which we saw no one.

To avoid carrying food for 3 weeks, we mailed supplies ahead to Dunsmuir, Etna, and Seiad Valley. Each of these small towns had its own distinct personality, but Etna was the clear winner as far as hiker friendliness. No sooner had we been delivered to the post office by a trail angel than the locals started asking about our trip. One man offered us a place to stay, "I live by myself, but you're welcome to stay," he said. Another man offered to drive us back to the trailhead (15 miles) when we were ready. We could have stayed for a nominal amount in the local "Hiker Heaven," but elected to treat ourselves to two nights in a "Bed & Breakfast" instead.

As always, on this trip several "trail angels" helped us. We had a terrific sendoff--complete with gourmet meals to compensate for the days of freeze dried ahead--by our friends Sandy and Craig in Clio. Then was JoAnn and Emery Michaels, near Castle Crags, Jim Payne of Etna, Bill of Ashland all of whom drove us from trail to town. Our friend Jeannine Burk drove us from her place in Medford, Oregon to Burney Falls so that we only had to drive one car up north to start out. We would NEVER be able to do all of this on again, off again (section-hiking) without the generosity of the angels.
#2 Susan's Request

As you may know bookselling is a difficult business. So, I could use your help. My request: if you have enjoyed either/both "Camino Chronicle: Walking to Santiago" or "We're in the Mountains Not over the Hill: Tales and Tips from Seasoned Women Backpackers, please ask your local or county library to order it/them for their collection. I have found that librarians are very receptive to patron's requests. Please contact me if you need an information on how to do this. Thank you.

#3 American Pilgrims on the Camino is having a S.F. Bay Area get- together on Saturday, September 23.

Contact Lin Galea (who led an EXTRAORDINARY hike and ferry ride last year that took us from the San Francisco Ferry Building to Sausalito and back again. If you are interested in this year's event, contact Lin and she'll send you details as they develop. "Have folks contact me by email (lin at lingalea dot com) or phone (415-441-5951)".

4. American Pilgrims on the Camino (www.americanpilgrims.com) will hold the 11th Annual Gathering of Pilgrims on the West Coast in 2008

. Be sure to mark the dates on your calendar and check their website for registration forms and further information this fall. The Old Santa Barbara Mission, Santa Barbara, California March 7 - 9, 2008.

#5. Development Project on the Camino?

Helena Bernardo, formerly of Portugal, now residing in Canada, writes of a threat to the integrity of the Camino. A protest was held on July 29 to protest construction. "The Municipality of O Pino has projected an industrial site on the layout of the French Way between the nucleus of Cimadevila (Amenal) and the public square of Lavacolla. Work has already begun!!!" (ed.: for more information, if you can read Spanish, go to www.amigosdelcamino.com

#6. Laundry--traveler style.

 As you may know, Ralph and I try to travel light. Rare is the evening when we don't do a bit of laundry and hang it out to dry in our room. Refugios almost always have washtubs and places to hang wet clothes--small hotels often don't. If you are carrying hiking poles, you can use them as makeshift clothes drying lines--put one between two chairs, etc. Get creative, but don't let water drip on the floors.

#7. Quest Outfitters.

 If you are interested in making any of your own backpacking or hiking gear--such as sleeping bags, stuff sacks, etc. this is an excellent source of the fabrics. I've just ordered some sil- nylon (extremely lightweight) so that I can make stuff sacks that are lighter than anything on the market. www.questoutfitter.com