Susan Alcorn's Backpacking/Hiking Tales & Tips #77 Dec 15, 2006

Dear Friends and Family,
I hope your holidays are filled with peace and joy--and that you can squeeze in some great hikes between events.

Contents:
1. "Pilgrimage to America" details
2. National Outdoor Leadership School
3. "Climbing for Kids," Bay Area Wilderness Training
4. Yosemite's Tioga Pass closure
5. More trips for 2007
6. Susan's events' calendar
7. Red moon at night...
8. A backpacker's gratitude
 

#1. American Pilgrim Friends of the Camino has just posted the details of their conference for 2007 in Williamsburg, VA. Download the registration forms at their website: www.americanpilgrims.com

"The 10th Annual Gathering of Pilgrims is scheduled for March 9 through 11, 2007 in historic Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia. An added inducement, if one is needed, is that 2007 is the 400th anniversary of the founding of Jamestown, the first permanent English settlement in North America, and the Jamestown-Williamsburg area will be alive with special events."

The 2007 theme will be "Pilgrimage to America". A small sampling of events includes sessions about boots and backpacks, first aid for pilgrims, photography, the pilgrimage phenomenon in ancient Greece and Rome, the pilgrimages that formed early America, foods and wines of Spain and a presentation by college students who trekked in 2005 and 2006. Performances of Music of Pilgrimage. Medieval pilgrims and the Crusaders. And this is only a partial list."

Travel and lodging information, including specific information about the Williamsburg Days Inn Downtown, the official hotel for the 2007 Gathering, is available for downloading. When you are ready to register, please download the registration form and the registration payment form, then complete and mail them."

On March 6 through 8, immediately before the Gathering, a training workshop for future volunteer hospitaleros will be held in Williamsburg. Contact Daniel De Kay for further information. Come join a pilgrimage that leads to Colonial Williamsburg!"

#2. National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS) is the "leader in teaching wilderness skills." They offer 375 courses a year --including teaching the skills to help you safely explore backpacking, kayaking, rock climbing, etc. They also teach first aid, CRT, EMT, etc. classes. Go to: http://www.nols.edu/wmi/ The live you save could be your own.

#3. Join the Climbing for Kids Team. Bay Area Wilderness Training, which trains leaders to get youth out of the city and into the wilderness, is offering several challenges in 2007. You can climb Mt. Shasta, CA (July 13-16 and July 27-30; Mt. Rainier, WA (Aug., 2007); and Mt. Whitney, CA (April 26-30 and June 8-11, 2007. These climbs are projects of Earth Island Institute. Climbers will need to raise $3200-$3,500 dollars; they will receive $1,500 of free gear. Also provided to climbers: weekend training and pre-trip meetings, professional mountaineering guides, ice axes, crampons, ropes, helmets, mountaineering boots, food. "Good physical conditioning is required, but no previous mountaineering experience is required." BAWT: "Getting Youth outdoors" www.batw.org. Info about the climbs: www.climbingforkids.org

#4. Winter storms and cold weather brought the close of the Tioga and Glacier Point Roads the last week of November. Snow and icy conditions persist throughout the winter and often into early summer. While the Tioga Road through Yosemite's high country will remain closed, a portion of the Glacier Point Road, from Chinquapin to Badger Pass will reopen with the start of the Badger Pass ski season. Badger Pass ski area is slated to open December 15th, conditions permitting.

Ice and snow can exist on park roads at any time. Chains may become mandatory at any time. Remember to carry chains in your vehicle when visiting the park in winter. For information on road conditions in the park call (209) 372-0200." And, there is currently snow on the valley floor.

#5. Marian Marbury of Adventures in Good Company sends the details about three backpacking trips they have coming up next year. "The average age of our participants is probably 50."

June 9 - 16, 2007: Backpacking the Appalachian Trail: An Introduction to Lightweight Backpacking On this trip we backpack along one of the Appalachian Trail's most interesting sections, from Fox Creek to Wise Mountain, at the height of the rhododendron and azaleas. This is a perfect trip for beginners: our moderate mileage leaves time for you to learn everything you need to know to pursue backpacking on your own. Or if you haven't been backpacking for awhile, join us to learn about the lightweight revolution. Our lightweight approach should keep your pack under 30 pounds. $950 (deduct $50 if you register by 2/5) Maximum group size is 10 M+

June 17 - 24, 2007: Backpacking the Appalachian Trail Section by Section We continue our section hiking of the Appalachian Trail this year, from Virginia, to the border of North Carolina. This year's section is one of the most scenic of the entire trail, with several 5- 6,000-foot mountains and waterfalls only accessible by foot. Backpacking experience required $950 (deduct $50 if you register by 2/17) Maximum group size is 10 M+

September 29 - October 6, 2007: Backpacking through Two Billion Years of Geologic History The Grand Canyon is truly one of the wonders of the world, and its exploration is not to be taken lightly. Once away from the crowded rim, we travel primitive paths, gather water from infrequent springs, sleep under the stars, and experience our own insignificance. This journey is for experienced backpackers who want to see one of the true wonders of the world from a perspective that is only available to those who are willing to work for it. $995 (deduct $50 if you register by 5/29)

Adventures in Good Company, 5913 Brackenridge Ave Baltimore, MD 21212, 410/435-1965 or 877/439-4042 (toll free). visit our web site at http://www.adventuresingoodcompany.com

#6. New events on Susan's calendar: Thursday, March 22nd and 29th, 7:00-9:30 p.m. Orinda Community Center, Orinda, CA. "Self-Publishing Basics, instructor Susan Alcorn. Join this class and learn how to get your book published. Mainstream vs. self-publishing; how to prepare your manuscript; editing; illustrations; printers; and launching your book." Class fee $50-$55, info/register: www.ci.orinda.ca.us/parksandrec. (info only: 925-254-2445).

ARIZONA tour: Tuesday, March 6, 2007. REI Phoenix. 12634 N Paradise Village Pkwy, Phoenix, AZ 85032, (602) 996-5400. Program with digital slide show on Spain's Camino de Santiago. Wednesday, March 7, 2007. REI Tempe. 1405 W Southern Ave., Tempe, AZ 85282. (480) 967-5494. (see Phoenix description).

In addition to the Bay Area events I listed last issue (details on our website under "calendar"), we will also be doing the Camino program at the Berkeley REI on Tues. March 20 and the San Carlos REI on Thur. March 15, 2007. All shows are at 7:00 p.m. and free.

#7. "Red Sky in the morning, sailors take warning. Red sky at night, sailors delight," according to the Library of Congress is true. The red morning sky may indicate clouds moving in from the west; the red sky at night (sunset) indicates clouds are moving away. (Info from Roberta Gonzales, Chron. Dec. 14, 1006, pg. E8).

#8.From a Backpacker's Perspective: What We Can Be Thankful for This
Holiday Season
Adventures
Backpacks and Books
Companions and Cookstoves
Down Jackets
Eagles
Fleece
G.O.R.P.
Hiking Poles
Insoles
Journals
Kleenex
Llamas
Mountains
Nests
Owls
Purell
Quail
Rivers
Sunsets
Trail Angels and Trail Crews
Umbrellas
Vistas
Wildflowers and Waterfalls
Xeriscape
Yosemite
Zinc Oxide and Zippers

Happy trails,
Susan Alcorn

 

Susan Alcorn's Backpacking/Hiking Tales & Tips #76 Dec 1, 2006

Contents:
1. "Guest House"
2. Camino Route in Portugal
3. Something that WORKS for plantar fasciitis.
4. Early December Guide to the Sky
5. 2007 Hiking & Backpacking Adventures for you
6. Kilimanjaro or Bust!
7. More about towels
8. Author events in your area

#1. Helena of Portugal (a Camino friend) recently sent the following poem. I found it quite meaningful and with the holidays upon us, a time that can be rather hectic and stressful, it seems a perfect opportunity to consider its message.

Guest House

This being human is a guest house.
Every morning a new arrival.

A joy, a depression, a meanness,
some momentary awareness
comes as an unexpected visitor.

Welcome and entertain them all!
Even if they're a crowd of sorrows,
who violently sweep your house
empty of its furniture,
still, treat each guest honorably.
He may be clearing you out
for some new delight.

The dark thought, the shame, the malice,
meet them at the door laughing, and invite them in.

Be grateful for whoever comes,
because each has been sent
as a guide from beyond.

~ Mevlana Jalaluddin Rumi ~
(1202-1273)

Helena added, "It was sent to a friend of mine by one of the hospitaleiros in the Camino.

#2. Helena also mentioned that there has been a. a presentation in Astorga (to all the different Camino associations) on November 22nd about the Camino route in Portugal (Lisboa-Porto). There will also be a meeting in Lisbon in early December.

#3. A stretch that REALLY works at preventing, or minimizing the problem of, plantar Fasciitis. Heel To Heal: New Stretch Relieves Pain from Plantar Fasciitis A new stretch is proving quite effective to help treat and potentially cure plantar fasciitis, a condition that affects nearly 2.5 million Americans each year. In a study recently published in Journal of Bone and Joint Surgery, researchers found that patients suffering from the painful heel spur syndrome had a 75 percent chance of having no pain and returning to full activity within three to six months of performing the stretch. In addition, patients have about a 75 percent chance of needing no further treatment.
The study is a two-year follow-up on 82 patients with plantar fasciitis, all of whom were part of an original clinical trial of 101 patients in 2003. The patients were taught a new stretch, specifically targeting the plantar fascia, that was developed by Benedict DiGiovanni, M.D., associate professor of orthopaedic surgery at the University of Rochester and author of the study, and Deborah Nawoczenski, P.T., Ph.D., professor of physical therapy at Ithaca College.
The stretch requires patients to sit with one leg crossed over the other, and stretch the arch of the foot by taking one hand and pulling the toes back toward the shin for a count of 10. The exercise must be repeated 10 times, and performed at least three times a day, including before taking the first step in the morning and before standing after a prolonged period of sitting. More than 90 percent of the patients were totally satisfied or satisfied with minor reservations, and noted distinct decrease in pain and activity limitations. The most common cause of heel pain, plantar fasciitis occurs when the plantar fascia, the flat band of tissue that connects your heel bone to your toes, is strained, causing weakness, inflammation and irritation. Common in middle-aged people as well as younger people who are on their feet a lot, like athletes or soldiers, people with plantar fasciitis experience extreme pain when they stand or walk. Plantar fasciitis can be a frustrating experience, as the chronic cycle of reinjury and pain can last for up to one year. DiGiovanni likens it to pulling a hamstring, and continuing to run without proper stretching. "Walking without stretching those foot tissues is just re-injuring yourself," he said.
Most physicians will recommend a non-surgical approach to treating plantar fasciitis, advising a regimen of anti-inflammatory medications, foot inserts, and stretches. Surgery occurs in about 5 percent of all cases, and has a 50 percent success rate of eliminating pain and allowing for full activity.
"Plantar fasciitis is everywhere, but we really haven't had a good handle on it," said DiGiovanni. "The condition often causes chronic symptoms and typically takes about nine to 10 months to burn itself out, and for people experiencing this pain, that's way too long to suffer through it."
DiGiovanni should know. He's experienced plantar fasciitis first-hand. Deciding to get some extra exercise on a golf outing one recent afternoon, he carried his clubs around all 18 holes instead of taking an easy-going ride in a golf cart. The next morning, he woke up with severe heel pain, which brought the topic of his study close to home.
"We need to further optimize non-operative treatments prior to considering surgical options," DiGiovanni said. "If you look at the results of the study, I think we've succeeded."

Source: University of Rochester Medical Center, November 13, 2006 (This item was previously sent by John Vonhof. You can subscribe to John Vonhof's ezine by sending an e-mail to: FixingYourFeetEzine-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

#4. Early December Guide to the Sky: Fall moon December 4., Best Meteor shower of the year is usually the Geminid shower, December 13-14. However, it is also usually the COLDEST shower of the year. Look before midnight to avoid the added light of the moon.

#5. 2007 Adventures ahead: CALL OF THE WILD (www.callwild.com) is offering several great trips including a Grand Canyon Havasu Mule Pack (April 30-May 5 and a Yosemite Falls from the high country for beginners (July 20-22).

CAL ALUMNI through Cal Discoveries (calDiscoveries.com) is offering "Walking to Santiago de Compostela, Spain" September 1-11. They will hike (with motorized support) from Burgos (one of my favorite cities) to Santiago de Compostela on 2-6 hour hiking days. $4245 plus airfare.

The YOSEMITE ASSOCIATION has several snowshoe trips open this year (non-members welcome). Dewey Point (Sat/ Jam 13); Badger Pass with a Naturalist (Sat. Jan 20); Full Moon Snowshoe (Fri. Feb. 2, a second trip on Sat. Feb. 3). Cost members $70, non-members $82. Snowshoes provided. www.yosemite.org/seminars. On Sunday, April 1, they offer a course in how to use hiking poles "to travel further, faster, and longer on Yosemite's trails." ($64 member/$75 non-member).

SIERRA CLUB outings include many hiking trips. "Across the Dolomites of Italy (Aug. 29-Sep. 7th;" perhaps the most unusual one is "Ititatrip: Dog Mushing in Alaska: (Feb. 18-25). www.sierraclub.org/outings/ national or call 415-977-5522.

CALIFORNIA STATE PARK FOUNDATION reminds us that it's Elephant Seal walk season at Ano Nuevo State Park (south of Half Moon Bay on hwy. 1). Reservations are required during the season of Dec. 15, 2006-March 31, 2007. 800-444-4445. No tour on Christmas Day; you have the best chance of getting a reservation for these three-mile walks to see the elephant seals on weekdays.

Sutter Buttes hikes by MIDDLE MOUNTAIN Foundation. Travelers along highways 5, 20, and 99 have probably noticed these buttes an hour north of Sacramento, California but until recently exploring them has been next to impossible because the buttes (the smallest mountain range in the world) are surrounded by private property. Now the public has been given the opportunity to see not only the buttes, but also the new state land in nearby Peace Valley (that may become a state park) by going on hikes organized by the foundation.

"The Hikes are held only during the spring and the fall. The Spring Hike Season is late February to early May. The Fall Hike Season is mid-October to early December.

Hikes are $35.00 per person unless otherwise noted. All hikes fill up fast...20 participants are allowed on most hikes. Hikes are provided on a reservations only basis. You may request to be put on a waiting list for full hikes, in the event of cancellations."

A day in the Buttes usually begins at 8:30 am and ends around 3:30 pm. Trips are scheduled to proceed in all but the most severe weather conditions. Participants in all hikes should be prepared to expect uneven footing, stepping over rocks and boulders, crossing streams, and hill climbing. Spring hikers are likely to encounter wet, squishy, ankle-deep grass, while fall trekkers will be contending with thistles and stickers. Poison oak is abundant, but you will be warned of its proximity. Rattlesnakes, though common in the warmer seasons, are usually reclusive and inactive during our hiking seasons." www.middlemountain.org. For scheduled hikes please contact Karen at: (530) 671-6116, or email her at: mmfhikes@yahoo.com'

My thanks to Tom Stienstra "Outdoors" columnist for the S.F. Chronicle for alerting us to this opportunity.

#6. Kilimanjaro or Bust! It's time to announce to the world--at least my corner of the world--that Ralph, Grace L., and I are planning a trip to Africa early next year. It all started when Grace wrote to ask if we had ever considered such a trip. We hadn't, but going on an African safari has always been at the top of my list as far as destinations go. So we are doing both--the climb, followed by a short safari in Tanzania.

We're all hoping to keep whatever gains we've made this year backpacking and hiking and to avoid succumbing to our normal holiday lethargy. Ralph and I are either hiking or going to the gym six days a week. I alternate between, "What I've gotten myself into?" and "I can do this!" The information from our trip leaders explains that the demands are as much mental as physical.

The Tanzanian government requires that groups go with a guide. We did a fair amount of research before signing up for our tour, and I like the fact that our provider monitors our oxygen level twice daily, carries oxygen, and has other emergency equipment. There are five routes up Kilimanjaro and two descent routes. We are taking the Lemosho route because it starts at a lower elevation, goes up more gradually than some, and travels through all many different zones (jungle, heather, glacial, etc.). The distance is between 50-60 miles, elevation 19,340 ft.

If any of you have climbed the mountain, we'd love to hear about your experience.
#7. Reader Barbara C. sends another suggestion for a lightweight towel. "I always used cloth diapers. Their loose weave allows them to dry quickly." (ed.: No word how disposable diapers would work!)

#8. Regional: Bay Area: Author events for "Camino Chronicle: Walking to Santiago." Final event for 2006: Saturday-Sunday, December 9th and 10th. 10 a.m.-6 p.m. KPFA (94.1 FM) Crafts and Music Fair, San Francisco Concourse, 8th and Brannan, San Francisco. Susan Alcorn will be signing her books, Camino Chronicle: Walking to Santiago and We're in the Mountains not over the Hill: Tales and Tips from Seasoned Women Backpackers, at the Ecology Center booth. Also on site will be authors Adina Sara and Amy Gorman. www.kpfa.org/events.

2007 Camino shows (more coming soon!):
*Wednesday, January 10, 2007. 7:00 p.m. REI Corte Madera, 213 Corte Madera Town Center, Corte Madera. (415) 927-1938. Susan and Ralph Alcorn will present a digital slide show on Spain's famous pilgrimage route, the Camino de Santiago. Free.
*Saturday, January 13, 2007. Bay Area Independent Publishers Association. BAIPA meetings are held at the First Congregational Church, 8 North San Pedro Road, San Rafael, CA 94903. Susan Alcorn will join a panel discussion on self-publishing. Theme: "Finding inspiration in life's challenges." San Rafael, CA. Go to baipa.net for program schedule and directions to the meeting place. Open to the public. $3 members, $5 non-members.
*Wednesday, January 17, 2007. 7:00 p.m. REI San Francisco, 840 Brannan St., San Francisco. (415) 934-1938. Susan and Ralph Alcorn will present a digital slide show on Spain's famous pilgrimage route, the Camino de Santiago. Free.
*Wednesday, February 14, 2007. REI Mountain View, 2450 Charleston Rd. Mountain View. (650) 969-1938. Susan and Ralph Alcorn will present a digital slide show on Spain's famous pilgrimage route, the Camino de Santiago. Free.
*Friday, February 16, 2007. Sierra Club, Sierra Nevada Group, Seaman's Lodge, Pioneer Park, Nevada City, CA. Susan and Ralph Alcorn will present a slide program on Spain's famous pilgrimage route, the Camino de Santiago. In September 2001, Ralph and Susan set out across northern Spain on a 500-mile walk to Santiago de Compostela.

Come walk with the Alcorns down from the Pyrenees, through the wine-growing regions of Rioja and Navarre, across the blazing hot meseta, over the Cantabrian mountain ranges, and into green Galicia. Learn first hand about the refugio (hostel) system and where to find food and water along the path. Susan will read short selections from her new book, Camino Chronicle: Walking to Santiago, to introduce you to an intriguing land of beauty, history, and legend. You'll also learn how it was to encounter 9-11 in a foreign setting far from friends and family. Potluck 6:30 p.m., program 7:30-9:00 p.m. Copies of Camino Chronicle: Walking to Santiago will be available for purchase. Info: www.motherlode.sierraclub.org/sierranevada

Additional 2007 programs: Please our website for additions and corrections. We expect to update our schedule with March programs in additional Bay Area REI stores.

Happy trails,
Susan Alcorn

 

Susan Alcorn's Backpacking/Hiking Tales & Tips #75 Nov 10, 2006

Dear Readers,

1. Winner of our Camino prize basket
2. A towel for the Camino
3. Madeleine's Sierra 400+ mile trip.
4. Air travel: gels and liquids
5. Great Old Broads Auction
6. Regional: KPFA Art and Crafts Show
7. Regional: Hiking Club
8. Why this newsletter is shorter than usual

#1. The winner in our REI drawing of our basket of goodies--including an autographed copy of Camino Chronicle: Walking to Santiago, is Bob Carson who entered the contest at the Concord store. Congratulations to Bob--I'm waiting to hear from him. Thanks to all who came to our slide presentations and who participated in our contest.

#2. If you've read "Camino Chronicle" you know that I did not have the perfect towel. I had cut my packtowel down and was always feeling chilled. Here's a better idea from a Camino forum contributor (Patricia?): "I bought my camino towel at the supermarket. It is what the Spaniards use to dry the dishes and it comes in a package with the name 'ballerina' written on it, it is yellow and costs 1 or 2 Euros.... it is very tiny but very absorbent and I saw many pilgrims with this type of yellow dish cloth as a towel."

Other recommendations: +a cotton 'pareo' or 'sarong' for use as a towel, scarf, blanket and skirt. +a sleeping bag to guarantee a clean bed. +showering with clothes on and letting them dry the next day on the back of her backpack. (My personal +approach is to drop my clothes on the floor of the shower and stomp on them while I'm showering. Most things will get dry overnight--with the exception of socks. ) +vapor rub on my feet to prevent blisters. +"cardio pants, the ones I wear when I work out...easy to wash and very little space in the backpack."

#3. Madeleine's 400+mile Sierra backpack with her thoughts about going solo.
Hi Susan,
"... I only had 2 hours of rain in 49 days of hiking... climbed Mt. Whitney the day after I turned 51, met a lot of back country rangers, had tons of flowers in the first 3 weeks (bugs too) and altogether had a wonderful trip. ... I certainly didn't meet any creepy people out there, so that was cool. Nearer to big trail heads of course things were more crowded and there were day hikers, but all in all, great people all the way!

I learned I love hiking alone, though actually wound up only being alone half the time. others wanted to not only re supply me but join me, so that was cool. Now I know I can do it any time...It was cool to go in one direction and look back from the high passes and know I'd been way back there! 10 miles a day was plenty for me as it kept me walking most of the day--get up in sun, stopping for pictures, to meet people and take long lunches. But there still did not seem to be enough time to swim and just hang out enough even at that pace!

...I saw 3 bears, though none were after my food, or me. It really became a walking meditation on the parts where I was alone. Now I'm processing it all... stay tuned.

You can read Madeleine's newspaper account by cut and paste: http://nuggetnews.com/main.asp?Search=1&ArticleID=2850&SectionID=6&SubSectionID=&S=1  (About the article, she adds: "The major error is, the entire PCT is over 2600 miles, not 1900.)

#4. Some of us fly to distant places to start a long hike or backpack trip (or to visit the relatives, etc.) Here is an update on: how to carry gels and liquids: "...those vaunted Transportation Security Administration security checks - the other major reason experts are urging travelers to get to the airport as early as possible. During the holidays a lot of people fly who usually don't. So many may be confused about what the TSA will and will not allow on board."

For instance, did you know that some liquids and gels are now allowed? But they have to be in three-ounce containers inside a single QUART-SIZED sealable baggie, not gallon- or a sandwich-sized. All lighters are banned, but you can bring on four books of matches. TSA's website, at www.tsa.gov, details these rules and is a must-see for anyone who hasn't flown in recent months."

To make it more understandable to people we've launched a campaign called 3-1-1," says Ellen Howe, a TSA spokeswoman. "It's a reminder of three ounces or less, one quart-sized bag, one bag per traveler, and that bag needs to be pulled out of your carry-on and placed into the bin."

#5. Great Old Broads for Wilderness is having their annual auction. A wonderful opportunity to find great values and to support the Broads' activities to preserve wilderness. "With 150+ items to bid on, from whitewater rafting to guided hikes to wonderful vacation getaways to lots of great outdoor gear and clothing, and fabulous artwork and books, this is one auction you don't want to miss!" www.greatoldbroads.org

#6. Regional: S. F. Bay Area:
KPFA Arts and Crafts Fair
Sat., Sun., December 9, 10 a.m.--6 p.m.
Susan will be sharing an authors' table with the Ecology Center. Adina Sara "100 Words Per Minute" at www.adinasara.com Amy Gorman "Aging Artfully" at www.goldenbearcasting.com Susan Alcorn "Camino Chronicle" & "We're in the Mountains Not over the Hill" www.backpack45.com

The KPFA (94.1 FM) fair is the major, non-air fundraising event for the station. It's a juried fair and "a holiday destination for shoppers with a social conscience who come back year after year for high-quality original work." $9 adults, $6 seniors and disabled, free for under 17. www.kpfa.org/craftsfair

Transportation: Free Shuttles will pick up passengers from the Civic Center BART Station at the 8th & Market MUNI bus stop every 20 minutes all day. Information is available from 8 am to 8 p.m. Saturday & Sunday at 1.800.660.4287

Our friends at the San Francisco Bicycle Coalition will provide VALET BIKE PARKING! Check out the SFBC's bike parking page: http://www.sfbike.org/valet

#7. East Bay Casual Hikers:
I just learned of another area hiking group, East Bay Casual Hikers "The East Bay Casual Hiking Group is an informal co-ed group of adults who meet regularly to go hiking. Our hikes generally range from 3-9 miles in length, or 2-4 hours, timewise. What started back in the Fall of 2003 with less than half a dozen members, today continues to grow at a rate of between 30-50 new members each and every month!"

Our membership is diverse, not only in terms of hiking ability, but also in age. Some of us are pretty experienced, speedy, "trail blazer" hiking types, while others prefer to walk at a slower pace. Some are just getting started in this thing called "hiking". The bulk of us, though, probably fall somewhere in between. Age-wise, we are the young and the young at heart! Mostly, we are 20-, 30-, 40-, and 50-somethings."

There is no per hike fee or yearly membership fee to join our group. We hike on public trails around the Contra Costa County area, so membership is and will always be FREE!"

Their next hike is: Mt Diablo Foothills - Clayton Side "Sunday, November 12, 2006 @ 11:00 AM NOTE: We will hike a little way up Donner canyon and Median ridge, gaining approx. 700 ft elevation, and then return along back canyon, with a detour over to the Mitchell canyon staging area. I'm estimating the distance covered at 6-7 miles. Mist and intermittent sprinkles will not cause me to cancel the hike. Heavy rain will."

Their website also has an extensive listing of Bay Area hiking groups. Info from: http://hiking.bondon.com  Or contact Jon Bondon (925) 210-2242 or email: JBondon2@BrwnCald.com

#8. This newsletter is shorter, and earlier, because our offices will be closed Nov. 13-17. Ralph and I are taking a welcome break by going on a Zydeco dance cruise out of New Orleans--ports of call in Mexico, Guatemala and Belize.

Have a wonderful Thanksgiving, and don't forget to get in some hikes during the holidays. We didn't need scientists to tell us that exercise reduces stress, improves our mental and physical health--we experience it every time we go for a walk. Some parts of the U.S. may be having days of rain, or inches of snow, but in the S.F. Bay Area, we are enjoying cooler, but sunny days, and all is brightened by leaves turning brilliant shades of red or yellow.

Happy trails,
Susan Alcorn

 

Susan Alcorn's Backpacking/Hiking Tales & Tips #74, Nov 1, 2006

#1. Episode on the Camino de Santiago
#2. Slide shows at REI
#3. Pilgrim's arrival in Jerusalem
#4. .. don't need no fancy sports drink!
#5. John Vonhof's foot care blog
#6. American Pilgrims Hike report
#7. New book on the San Andreas Fault
#8. Sky Guide
#9. Women on Common Ground

#1. Because on this year's Camino trip Ralph and I were able to hike the 60-mile section of Spain between Leon and Ponferrada, we were finally able to see Astorga and some of other Maragato regions. As "Camino Chronicle" explains in greater depth, the origins of the Maragato people is unknown. What we do know is that until recently they lived an insular life. They did not intermarry with "outsiders," and they tried to minimize contact with outsiders. They originally were muleteers--making their living by hauling goods from the ocean to the interior with mule teams.

Having such physically demanding work, it is easy to understand how they came up with the traditional meal called Cocido Maragato. Ralph and I had been warned that the meal would be a heavy one. How substantial, we didn't realize until we tried it. In Astorga, we went to a restaurant that specializes in this meal.

We were first brought a large clay serving dish filled with large chunks of meat--sausages, beef, chicken, pork--seven types in all. We ordered some red wine and the waitress also served a plate of flavorful, sliced tomatoes and a basket of french bread. The stew had been cooked for hours and was very tender. We chose pieces of meat carefully because neither of us is a fan of pig's feet, pig's ear, or solid chunks of fat. But since the dish held enough protein for a week, and what we tasted was delicious, we were soon feeling stuffed.

While we were trying to make our way through this enormous amount of food, the waitress continued to stir the contents of a large clay pot that was sitting on the counter. From time to time she would pour in more alcohol using a large ladle. Flames would rise then higher from the pot.

After the first course, we thought we were through eating. Maybe a bit of dessert. But no, we were just getting started. Next came a platter of chickpeas and cooked cabbage flavored with broth from the meats. Fabulous combination! Another plate of sliced tomatoes was served.

The came a chicken and pasta soup--once again with the meat broth base. Then dessert--sort of a vanilla pudding that hasn't jelled.

And finally, the piece de resistance: the waitress brought us cups full of the drink she had been so carefully tending-- queimada--the mystical potion that the Maragato traditionally savor along with stories, spells, and incantations. It was actually quite tasty; Ralph compared it to brandy with honey added.

#2. Ralph and I have given our Camino de Santiago slide show at several REI stores lately and our final event of the REI season will be next Tuesday, November 7, at 7 p.m. in Concord at 1975 Diamond Blvd. (925) 825-9400. (If you plan to come, be sure to vote first!) We've had a wonderful time with the programs. They have been well attended with appreciative audiences and great questions and comments. We will do the drawing for the "goodie" basket after that show and let everyone know who the winner is.

#3. Brandon's Arrival in Jerusalem
Hi Sue:
I thought you and your readers might be interested in this final update on my 2700-mile pilgrimage trek for peace from France to Jerusalem. It was an incredible journey assisted by "angels" all along the way.

At long last Jerusalem came into sight yesterday and I entered through Jaffa Gate into the Old City. After five months of trekking across ten countries and 4350 kilometers (2700 miles) I arrived as other pilgrims and knights have done over the past millenniums.

This past month has been some of the most difficult hiking I've ever done. Turkey was incredible and I was amazed by the kindness of the people every day. However the 40-58 kilometer daily treks though 85-95 degree weather was a daily challenge as well. Reaching Antalya, I discovered that the boat now leaves from Alanya some four days east, so I set off again. The crossing to Cyprus was swift and I was happy to be able to walk across this beautiful landscape--even across the notorious Green Line and stay in some traditional villages. Next, I caught a cargo ship to Haifa and walked the National Trail 200 km. to the outskirts of Jerusalem.

Although I was disappointed not to have been able to cross Syria, this Antalya crossing was similar to one made during the Crusades and also allowed me more time in Israel to visit places like Akko (Acre).

All along the way I have been able to continue discussions with ordinary people about peace: talking as an alternative to bombing. I have found their response universally positive and hope that I have been able to remind them that we have more similarities as "brothers" than we have differences.

So now that the trekking is at an end, I return to Maui. Something tells me that this journey will continue as I write my book and continue the journey on paper--and in my heart.

Cheers,
Brandon
Brandon Wilson, author of the new DEAD MEN DON'T LEAVE TIPS: Adventures X Africa and the IPPY award-winning YAK BUTTER BLUES: A Tibetan Trek of Faith [Brandon is writing a book about his recent adventures and you can follow that journey's progress at his website: www.pilgrimstales.com.]

#4. Recipe for sports hydration drink. While we were recently at Sierra Club's Clair Tapaan at Donner Summit, we tried a sample of Blue Sky, Blue Sport, which is a new product billed as a "natural thirst quencher." We tried the Lemon-lime, which was good, but since it only comes in liquid form, not powder, it isn't practical for long-distance hikers. When Ralph and I hiked in Northern California in August, when temperatures were often in the triple digits, we carried plenty of water, but we also carried a mixture of sugar and salts to avoid dehydration, etc. The "recipe" (which is also posted on our website: www.backpack45.com) is as follows:

ELECTROLYTES-REHYDRATION HOMEMADE DRINK
Kaiser's Health Handbook has the following "recipe" for making your own rehydration drink. To one liter of water and 1/2 teaspoon baking soda, 1/2 teaspoon table salt, 1/4 teaspoon salt substitute (Lite Salt), 3 to 4 tablespoons sugar. Do not give to children under 12! Ralph and I carry the baking soda, table salt and Lite Salt in 3 separate ziplocks and on hot days will add it to our Tang [which contains sugar] in pinches i.e. two pinches of soda & table salt, one of Lite.

#5. To subscribe to John Vonhof's e-zine on footcare, send a message to: FixingYourFeetEzine-subscribe@yahoogroups.com. John is an expert on footcare for athletes and others.

#6. I just received notice of what looks like an interesting book for hikers and other techies: "Field Guide to the San Andreas Fault: See and Touch the World's Most Famous Fault," by David K. Lynch, PhD, http://www.thulescientific.com (310) 455-3335. David writes, "Hello Fellow Hikers - I thought you'd like to know about my new book. It has hundreds of GPS coordinates, mile-by-mile road logs, hyperaccurate fault coordinates and much more. Also, please pass this message on to your members and to anyone else who you think might be interested."

#7. This past Sunday, Ralph and I went on an incredibly wonderful hike with local members and supporters of the American Pilgrims on the Camino. About a dozen of us gathered at the S. F. Ferry Building to start out. The hike was organized and led by Lin Galea who did an outstanding job of providing us with background information on what we were seeing.

I'm including Lin's description of the hike in case anyone is looking for an excellent city hike. It wouldn't be the same as when we had the benefit of Lin's commentary, but it is well worth doing on your own. We accessed Coit Tower by cutting through the Levi Strauss plaza and climbed several flights of stairs on Telegraph Hill to reach Coit Tower. Along the way, we saw dozens of the parrots that were made famous by the film, "The Parrots of Telegraph Hill." We stopped at the S.F. Art Institute to view one of Diego Rivera's murals.

Lin's details: "There are several places in the Ferry Building that sell take-out coffee, espresso and wonderful pastries. Frog Hollow Bakery is my favorite. At 9:30 we will depart along the Embarcadero, up to Coit Tower, through North Beach, Russian Hill and the Marina District to the Presidio. We'll stop at the new Lucas Campus for coffee and a break. From there we will cross through the Presidio over the Golden Gate Bridge to the Marine side of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area.... [then along] the Parade Lawn of East Fort Baker. >From there, it is a short walk down into Sausalito for a ferry ride back to San Francisco. [Currently, the last ferry from Sausalito back to S.F. leaves at 6:20 p.m. on weekends]

The Ferry Building is easily accessible by public transportation: BART (Embarcadero Station) (www.bart.gov); CalTrain (exit at the San Francisco end of the line, then North Judah to Embarcadero Station or 15-20 minute walk around the Embarcadero to the Ferry Building). (www.caltrain.com); Ferries from Vallejo (www.baylinkferry.com), Larkspur Landing (goldengateferry.org/schedules) and Alameda (www.transitinfo.org) Parking is available at several lots within two blocks of the Ferry Building."

Note: If you are interested in the Camino de Santiago and/or meeting those who have walked it, go to www.americanpilgrims.com

#8. The upcoming Full Moon, on November 5, is called the Hunter's Moon. The Algonguin called it the Beaver Moon; the Natches called it Bison Moon, and the Osage, the Raccoon Breeding Moon. (Cal Academy of Science Member Publication, Fall 2006.

#9. Regional (S.F.): East Bay Regional Park District Naturalist Programs: Women on Common Ground, Winter 2006 - 2007. This is only a partial listing. If you want more programs or directions to the parks, contact Sunol-Ohlone Regional Wilderness PO Box 82, Sunol, CA 94586 (925) 862-2601, or svisit@ebparks.org For EBRPD info: www.ebparks.org or (510) 635-0135).

Women on Common Ground is a series of naturalist-led programs for women who love to hike, camp, or otherwise play in the out-of-doors, but whose concern for personal safety keeps them from enjoying the wonders within their own parklands. Activities celebrate natural and cultural history and are designed to help women reclaim the joys of wild places by day and night. Wear sturdy shoes with textured soles for hiking on slippery slopes, dress in layers, wear sunscreen and a sun/rain hat and bring water and a trail snack to share. Parking fees may apply. We meet RAIN or SHINE, but will moderate our adventure to accommodate the weather. We encourage and can often help arrange carpools. Be prepared with change or small bills for new parking fees and/or machines at park gates. Please confirm directions with a map!

POINT PINOLE REGIONAL SHORELINE, Saturday, November 18, 2006 2:30pm- 6pm. "Dynamite Hike." Once the site of an explosives and gunpowder plant, Pt. Pinole is now a popular shoreline park along San Francisco Bay. Join us as we hike to the point and enjoy a meal while the sun slips beneath the water. Our route will change for fog or wind. Bring a trail dinner with something to share. Meet at the park entrance on Giant Highway for our flat, 3 - 4mile, round-trip hike. Reservations required. Call 925-862-2601 by noon, Thursday, November 16. Naturalists Katie Colbert and Linda Yemoto

TILDEN NATURE AREA. Saturday, December 16, 2006 10am-12:30pm. "Holiday Decorations." In our annual workshop, we'll create holiday decorations for the Women's Drop-In Shelter of Berkeley, and your home too. Bring a pair of small hand-clippers and a bag lunch if you plan to continue the day on our Early Winter Hike (see reverse of flier). Fee: $15 (non-res. $17) Res. required. Please call 510-636-1684. Course #: 13445. Naturalists Linda Yemoto and Katie Colbert

SUNOL-OHLONE REGIONAL WILDERNESS. Fri., Feb. 2, 2007. 5:30pm -- 8pm."Groundhog Moon." If the moon pops out of a cloud, is spring just around the corner? We'll look for sleepy Punxsutawney Squirrels and our own moonshadow on this easy, hardly muddy, two-mile hike up to Little Yosemite. Bring a trail snack and dress warmly. Reservations required. Please call 925-862-2601 by noon, Thursday, February 1. Naturalist Katie Colbert
______________________________________
Happy trails,
Susan Alcorn

 

Susan Alcorn's Backpacking/Hiking Tales &Tips #73, Oct 16, 2006

"The distance is nothing, it is only the first step that is difficult."

Marie Anne du Deffand (1697-1780) source: Ladies' Homes Journal, January 2006, pg. 140

Contents:
1. Of France's Camino and a trail angel
2. American Pilgrims' S.F. hike
3. Dry Footsies
4. Read Me!
5. Meteor Shower Oct. 21
6. Calendar of Events

1. The accommodations' picture in France is different than in Spain. One of the major differences is that the French "gites" (hostels) can be used by anyone--not just pilgrims--and reservations can be made in advance. In Spain, the refugios are for pilgrims--a pilgrim's passport must be presented--and reservations can't be made.

Therefore in the French hostels, one meets not only pilgrims, but also hikers out for a weekend and even tourists who have arrived by car or taxi. When Ralph and I hiked in France on the GR65 last year and the year before, we noticed this was happening, but we managed to find accommodations each night without problem (with one exception). This year, however, we experienced difficulties many times.

Since setting out for a week's walk through the country is a relatively popular activity for the French, we met up with many small groups who were hiking on the GR65. The groups frequently were slack-packing--using a taxi service to carry the bulk of their luggage and offering a ride between points if the traveler got tired of hiking. At the start of each day, the travelers and the taxis knew where they would be staying at day's end--reservations for the length of the trip had already been made. These services, " Transbagages," and others, provide a wonderful service to many people. Unfortunately, the system works against those who want to hike the distance and carry their own pack--in this case, Ralph and me. Because we were on foot, we couldn't be sure where we would be as far in advance.

This year we had to be more flexible. Because there was a glut of travelers, we could not often get our first choice, not even always our second choice of accommodations. On a few occasions, we had to change our route.

One night, we had to be even more creative--and that is how we met a trail angel. We were leaving Navarrenx and wanted to hike our usual distance, about 12 miles. It so happened that the trail split at that point, and there were three variations we could follow. But we could find no place to stay on any of the routes. Finally Ralph came up with a plan. We would walk to a farmhouse (Ferme Bohoteguia) that offered rooms. Once there, we would ask them to call a host in the city of Saint Palais, which was in the vicinity, and he would come out to the farmhouse and pick us up. St. Palais was too far for a day's walk and off the trail to boot. We asked the host where we were staying to call both places and arrange this.

We left for our day's walk. When we reached the farmhouse, an old lady came to the door. With our limited French and her limited English, we could not explain our situation. She finally turned us over to a young woman. Her English was also somewhat limited, but we eventually managed to tell her that we understood that they had no vacancies, but that we needed a phone call made to the host in St. Palais. (We never did figure out what happened to the original person who had taken our call). She made the phone call, but did not get any answer. I could tell that she was uncertain: did Ralph and I really have a place to stay? Had she misunderstood us, or had we misunderstood the arrangements?.

We asked if there was a taxi service available. "No," she replied. She asked if we would like something to drink--water? soda? beer? She brought us some beverages. Then she asked if we minded if she finished having her lunch. "After that," she said, I'll drive you to town myself."

We sat on the comfortable porch and waited while our rescuer finished lunch with her paying guests. Then she came out and lead the way to her car. Ralph climbed into the back--I started to. She objected, "I don't want to feel like a taxi." I climbed into the passenger seat and we were off.

As we zipped along, we talked steadily even though it required work on all sides. She talked about life in the countryside. "I don't have to lock my car; I can leave my keys in the ignition and money on the dash and nothing will be taken." I admitted we usually have to lock things where we live, but she agreed that even in Paris such freedoms would not be possible. We talked about the differences in the size of villages and towns in France. In France, these are usually quite small. A "village" or "hamlet" can be one or two houses; "towns" can be a couple dozen homes. Whereas in the U.S. we envision a town having at least a corner market or a gas station with a convenience store, in France, there may be no services available (although sometimes you can knock on a door and find help).

We arrived in St. Palais (about 8-10 miles distant), which is an important Basque city. Our driver located the street. It was a one way street, so we offered to get out at the corner and walk to the place where we wanted to stay. She would have none of it; she insisted on circling the block so that she could let us off directly in front of the place. Once there, she jumped out of the car and rang the bell. She was not going to let us go until she was certain we were in safe hands. The host answered the bell. Since he hadn't expected us to call until late afternoon, he had turned off the phone and taken an afternoon nap.

We tried to give our angel some payment for the ride. "No," she replied, "it was my pleasure." And then Ralph and I entered our Chambre et table d'hôte, La Masion d'Arthezenea, which turned out to be the most hospitable and beautiful place we were to encounter on this year's trip. More on that later.

#2. S.F Bay Area Pilgrim Walk from the Ferry Bldg. to Sausalito, Sunday, October 29, 2006, 9:30 a.m. Meet at the San Francisco Ferry Bldg. Plaza @ Statue of Ghandi. Bring your lunch and something to share
Lin, of the American Pilgrims, writes:
"Hola Amigos y Peregrinos,
Join us for another beautiful walk from the SF Ferry Bldg. to Sausalito, returning to San Francisco via Ferry service. Meet for coffee and chat 8:30 ? 9:30 a.m. at the statue of Ghandi on the bay side of the Ferry Bldg. There are several places in the Ferry building that sell take out coffee, espresso, and wonderful pastries. Frog Hollow Bakery is my favorite. At 9:30 we will depart along the Embarcadero, up to Coit Tower, through North Beach, Russian Hill and the Marina District to the Presidio. We'll stop at the new Lucas Campus for coffee and a break. From there we will cross through the Presidio over the Golden Gate Bridge to the Marine side of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. We will stop for a picnic on the Parade Lawn of East Fort Baker. From there, it is a short walk down into Sausalito for a ferry ride back to San Francisco.

The Ferry Bldg is easily accessible by public transportation: Bart (Embarcadero Station) (www.bart.gov/) CalTrain (exit at the SF end of the line, then N Judah to Embarcadero Station or 15-20 minute walk around the embarcadero to the Ferry Bldg.). (www.caltrain.com) Ferries from Vallejo (www.baylinkferry.com/), Larkspur Landing & (goldengateferry.org/schedules/) & Alameda (www.transitinfo.org/) Parking is available at several lots within two blocks of the Ferry Bldg.

Dress in layers, wear good walking shoes.
Questions and RSVP: contact Lin Galea (415-441-5951) or
lin@lingalea.com"

You can find more about the activities and services of the American Pilgrims at their website: www.americanpilgrims.com .
#3. Backpacker.com hint: When you go backpacking bring two narrow, Lexan type, half-liter bottles backpacking--not just for water, but for drying socks at night. Fill the bottles with boiling water and roll your wrung-out socks over them. "The odors unleashed might make a skunk gag, but by morning your socks will be dry."

#4. This issue's book recommendation: George Meegan's, "The Longest Walk," was recommended to me by someone who knows that I like to both read and hike. "The Longest Walk" is Meegan's story of his hike--at times accompanied by his wife (Yoshiko)--from Tierra del Fuego (the tip of South America) to Prudoe Bay (the tip of North America). And because he wanted to be sure the distance he walked would indeed by the longest walk, he added thousands of miles by making a huge swing over to the east coast of the United States and then heading west across the U.S. and Canada. His walk and adventures took seven years! Very interesting reading. The book was published in 1988; I had to order it on Amazon Marketplace because it's apparently out of print.

#5. October 21st is the peak of the Orionid meteor shower, with 20-25 meteor per hour. Because this is also the night of the New Moon, conditions will be ideal because moonlight interferes with viewing. (People on the East Coast may see the New Moon listed as occuring on the 22nd).

#6. Susan and Ralph's upcoming book events:
. Saturday, October 21, 2006. 9:00 a.m. - 2 p.m. "Self-Publishing Basics, instructor Susan Alcorn. Join this class and learn how to get your book published. Mainstream vs. self-publishing; how to prepare your manuscript; editing; illustrations; printers; and launching your book." Orinda Community Center, Orinda, CA. Class fee $50-$55, info/register: www.ci.orinda.ca.us/parksandrec . (info only: 925-254-2445).
. Tuesday, October 24, 2006. "Armchair Travelers," Delta College, Stockton, CA., 2:30 p.m. More details TBA. A slideshow presentation by Ralph and Susan Alcorn on the Camino de Santiago with readings from Camino Chronicle: Walking to Santiago.
. Thursday, October 26, 2006. 7:00 p.m. REI Santa Rosa, 2715 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, CA. (707) 540-9025. Susan and Ralph Alcorn will present a slide program on Spain's famous pilgrimage route, the Camino de Santiago. In September 2001, Ralph and Susan set out across northern Spain on a 500-mile walk to Santiago de Compostela. Come to REI to walk with the Alcorns' down from the Pyrenees, through the wine-growing regions of Rioja and Navarre, across the blazing hot meseta, over the mountains of Cantabrian, and into green Galicia. Learn first hand about the refugio (hostel) system and where to find food and water along the path. Susan will read short selections from her new book, Camino Chronicle: Walking to Santiago, to introduce you to an intriguing land of beauty, history, and legend. You'll also learn how it was to encounter 9-11 in a foreign setting far from friends and family. Free.
. Friday, October 27, 2006. 7:30 p.m. Laurel Bookstore, 4100 MacArthur (at 38th Ave.), Oakland, 510-531-2073. Book reading and discussion of Camino Chronicle: Walking to Santiago. This is a very welcoming independent bookstore.
. Tuesday, October 31, 2006. 7:00 p.m. REI Fremont, 43962 Fremont Blvd., Fremont, CA. (510) 651-0305. See Santa Rosa description above.
Saturday & Sunday, November 4 & 5th, 2006. 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Orinda Holiday Bazaar, Community center, Orinda, CA. Susan Alcorn will be sharing an authors' table with other local authors.
Tuesday, November 7, 2006. 7:00 p.m. Concord REI, 1975 Diamond Blvd. Concord, CA. (925) 825-9400. See Santa Rosa description above.
 

Susan Alcorn's Backpacking/Hiking Tales &Tips #72, Oct 7, 2006

Contents:
#1. Camino de Santiago success story
#2. Thread on Women's safety on the trail:
#3. Tales & Tips from Kathy Morey
#4. American Pilgrims gathering and request
#5. Hail or Sleet?
#6. Feet Fact
#7. Pacific Crest Trail Assoc. Open House

#1. You may be wondering why you haven't seen a newsletter for a while--that's because Ralph and I have been hiking in France and Spain for the past three weeks. Now we are back home and are celebrating our completion of France's LePuy to Saint Jean Pied de Port (GR65) and of Spain's Camino de Santiago (St. James Way). As many of you know, 9-11 affected our Camino hike in 2001. Not in any dramatic way, but because we weren't certain about flights home and wanted to get back to our departure city (Madrid), we bussed about 60 miles of the trail. Now we have walked the section that we bussed between Leon and Ponferrada.

In France, we were completing the GR65 from where we left off last year, in Aire Sur L'Adour. We hiked about 110 miles from there, which took us up and over the Pyrenees through St. Jean and down to Roncesvalles, which is where our 2001 hike began. The total mileage from LePuy to Santiago de Compostela is about 940 miles--which's another reason we are celebrating!

But how do you celebrate when you've already rewarded yourself with such trips? It's pretty hard to come up with anything new--after all, for more than three weeks, we've been eating everything in sight, exploring new countryside and cities, and putting our work schedules on hold!

Since I am still feeling the effects of jet lag, I am going to relate only a story or two, but I will tell more about our Camino trip in an upcoming issue.

When people consider making a pilgrimage on the Camino, one of their first decisions is where to start their walk. Those who want to walk a shorter distance, tend to start in Sarria. Those who want to complete the entire route across Spain traditionally start in either St. Jean (France) or Roncesvalles (Spain). Ralph and I made the decision in 2001 to start in Roncesvalles because starting in St. Jean would have entailed a 16-mile day over a 1,400-meter pass. Starting in Roncesvalles allows you to start out going downhill out of the Pyrenees.

But now that we have made the climb over the Pyrenees, I realize that those who start in Roncesvalles miss one of the most beautiful and spectacular parts of the trail. So my advice from here on out--start your hike in St. Jean if possible. Of course after saying that, I should add that the pass can be rainy or foggy and then might not be fun at all; it could even be dangerous. Let me tell you about our experience.

After spending the night in St. Jean, we hiked about six miles to a new, clean, attractive refuge-auberge at Orisson and spent the night. (Since the French refuges ("gites"/albergues/hostels) accept reservations, we had called ahead.) Six miles is not a tremendous distance, but during those miles you have climbed a couple of thousand feet and you have reduced the miles of the next day. The refuge is alongside one side of the road; a cantilevered eating area with beautiful views of the surrounding peaks and of the towns below was on the other side of the road. The refuge also had a bar and served meals (there's nothing else in the area). Dinner was at a long line of tables with about 20 people of various nationalities. Luckily, we had people near us from Holland and Belgium who spoke English fluently. We were joined by a couple traveling on horseback who also were doing the Camino. Most of the hikers had just started the trail that day and there was great excitement about the adventures to come.

Ralph and I slept in bunk beds in a room with four other people (there were two or three rooms); there were also about a half a dozen tents available outside and a couple of those were occupied. During dinner it had started to rain, and then we began to see flashes of lightning followed by claps of thunder within seconds. We began to wonder what tomorrow would bring. The storm continued until the wee hours, but when we awoke the next morning, we found the skies were still filled with dramatic clouds, but the rain had stopped. We were able to go. After the standard breakfast of french bread, butter, yogurt, jam, and coffee, we all set off.

It was green all around. At first, we could look back down the mountain and see various towns, but as we climbed we entered a world of GREEN--grasses, heather, broom. Occasionally we'd see a farmhouse; most often we'd see sheep. No longer were they sheared, in fact one flock had particularly long coats that resembled a bob. They'll need their heavy coats during the winter.

Because everyone had started at about the same time, we pretty much kept running into each other. One group would take a break, or we'd stop to shed jackets, then we'd all reach a monument of interest and everyone would be there. We were all enjoying the sense of camaraderie. In spite of all the warnings we had read about how difficult this climb would be, it was not particularly strenuous, it just required the endurance to keep moving uphill for hours.

After reaching the summit, there were three alternatives for descending into Roncesvalles. Most of those we'd set out with decided to take the road route; "it's recommended," they announced (though in French). We wanted to take the wooded route, which had been described as the most spectacular. Since the weather was good, it seemed a safe choice. And it was amazingly beautiful: a very steep downhill start which soon took us through a forest of chestnuts. The sunlight streamed between the trees. Nothing anchored us to the 21st century; I thought about the pilgrims of the middle ages making their way through this more remote route hoping to avoid the bandits that plagued travelers on the lower route. I wondered how many wolves survive in Spain today; this was a place they once roamed in great numbers.

When we reached Roncesvalles, we were struck by the contrast between now and then. When we started there in 2001, it was dark and gloomy and the scene at the refugio was chaotic and stressful (as my book describes). This time, it was sunny and glowing. The refugio has been moved across the road and in the new location, beds are assigned. A note at the entrance reads something to the effect, "no switching of beds allowed." The bus that arrived with the pilgrims was nearly empty--so different from our earlier experience. Perhaps it was less crowded because it was now mid-September; in 2001, we were there on September 1.

#2. One of the questions I am often asked at the presentations we give on both the John Muir Trail and the Camino de Santiago is how safe is it to travel on your own--particularly for women. I usually say that it's recommended to have a companion, but there are many people who like to hike solo.

Recently the PCT forum had a thread about the topic and here are some
suggestions:
L-Rod: "I was in the habit of telling people who asked me if I was hiking alone, "for the moment; there is a group of northbound PCT hikers that are my friends who are also on the trail and we leapfrog each other." This was a backhanded way of saying that someone could come along at any minute and I'm really not alone. You could make up a fictitious group or person if you wanted, like, "my husband is behind of me and should catch up any minute." "Sweet Goat Mama" (Carolyn Eddy) suggests: "Trust your gut. Don't require yourself to be polite, just leave the vicinity." "Be extremely vague as to your camping plans." If someone asks, you can say, " I haven't decided, I might make another 5 miles today." "Another ploy is to pull out a cell phone and talk on it, even if it's dead, it will make someone think twice about accosting you."

The Confraternity website states that the Camino de Santiago is safe. They comment that the pilgrim is respected in Europe. We also have met dozens of women traveling alone and they invariably report feeling very safe. Many who travel solo do so as a preference and many join up with others for companionship.

#3. Kathy Morey, author of "Sierra South," and more, from Wilderness
Press, sends these hints:
a. In marmot country, hang any laundry from trees, shrubs, or a line. Don't put it on a rock. Last weekend, I lost a good pair of socks and a hanky to SOMETHING, and marmots are the most likely "villains." This was at Blue Lake out of Lake Sabrina.

b. When something that's supposed to hold liquids, like a water bag, instead springs a leak while you're in the backcountry, try pine sap as an emergency leak-stopper. It's worked on my water bag when duct tape, strapping tape, and super glue all failed. Sap even works when the item is wet. Gather it and apply with a clean stick, of course.

#4. 10th Annual Gathering of Pilgrims, College of William & Mary, Williamsburg, Virginia (a real colonial town). March 9 - 11, 2007. Kathy Gower of the American Friends of the Camino would like to find people in the S.F. Bay Area who have hiked the Camino to add to their mailing list. Please send me a note if you are not on their mailing list and would like to know what about pilgrim activities in the U.S. and what's happening on the Camino.

#5. John Vonhof, author of "Fixing Your Feet," always has helpful suggestions and information about foot care in his newsletter and news articles:
Did you know:
"Business Wire, a source of news on the Internet, ran a study done by BizRate Research study this past summer. Responses by 997 online buyers answered questions about their feet. The results were interesting. Women account for 90% of all operations performed to correct common foot disorders-mostly attributed to the high price they pay for fashion."

#6. Hail or Sleet: What is the difference between hail and sleet? (by Roberta Gonzales: S.F. Chron, 11/18/04). Hail forms from snowflakes in the middle of a cloud that freeze into pellets. Hail can vary in size. Sleet develops under specialized atmospheric conditions (making it difficult to forecast). It starts as rain, but freezes when it passes through an area of freezing air. Sleet is consistent in size.

#7. The Pacific Crest Trail Association announces an Open House. They have recently remodeled and expanded their office in Sacramento. Friday, October 27, 2006, 5:00 to 9:30 p.m., PCTA Office, 5250 Date Avenue, Suite L. Sacramento, CA. This is their first Open House and will provide the opportunity of meet the board members and staff. Light refreshments. There will be a slide show presentation by Robert Francisco of his 2006 PCT thru-hike. RSVP to info@pcta.org or 916-349-2109 ext. 10 (not required, but appreciated.)

Happy trails and Buen Camino
Susan Alcorn